{"product_id":"30-s-french-vintage-salt-pepper-hbt-cotton-hunting-jacket","title":"［~30’s］French Vintage Salt \u0026 Pepper HBT Cotton Hunting Jacket","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEstimated circa 1930s, a French-made 'Salt \u0026 Pepper Herringbone Twill Cotton Hunting Jacket'.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA special acquisition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"Hunting Jacket\"—a staple of French workwear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDespite bearing the name \"Hunting\" in its title, this was in fact worn from the late nineteenth century through the mid-twentieth century in France, primarily among the upper classes during hunting expeditions. It is a garment that marries functionality with formality.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIn France of that era, hunting was not merely a means of livelihood, but rather a pursuit embraced by the \"privileged classes\"—aristocrats, landowners, wealthy factory proprietors—as an extension of their social and recreational lives.\u003cbr\u003eFor this reason, this jacket was not tailored as workwear for farmers or common laborers, but rather crafted expressly for those of elevated standing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThroughout France, particularly in cities such as Lyon, Limoges, and Toulouse, skilled tailors and ateliers were scattered about. Specimens from the early 1900s frequently bore the mark of bespoke construction, tailored to the individual form and purpose of each wearer.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIn those days, mass production was not yet the norm; ready-made garments remained a foreign concept. Production by label was exceedingly limited, and many specimens bear no tag whatsoever—a testament to the artisanal luxury woven throughout.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe fabrics employed were equally varied: heavy cotton canvas, cotton piqué, corduroy, linen, wool, and moleskin were all selected to withstand the rigorous demands of the hunt.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese materials possessed windproofing, durability, and freedom of movement, pursuing practicality for use in forest and field, whilst maintaining a refined bearing befitting the wearer's station.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmong the many offerings of French workwear, the \"Hunting Jacket\"—with its distinct purpose and standing—remains a singular presence, one that unites utility with formality, and continues to command high regard as a piece of genuine merit.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis particular specimen employs a fabric that is exceedingly rare in French hunting jackets: herringbone twill cotton in salt and pepper.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThough we at this shop have introduced countless French hunting jackets over the years, precisely because it is a canonical item, we permit ourselves no compromise in acquisition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhy this specimen was selected from among the many French hunting jackets available comes down to one fundamental distinction.\u003cbr\u003eRather than the conventional choices—cotton piqué or corduroy—this jacket is clothed in a fabric of remarkable rarity: \"salt and pepper herringbone twill cotton.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHerringbone twill—HBT.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe diagonal ribs that run across the weave, arranged as if following the pattern of fish bone, will be familiar to those acquainted with military wear.\u003cbr\u003eThis fabric gained renown through its use in American military utility garments, yet when found adorning a French hunting jacket, the matter becomes altogether different.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhere French hunting jackets are concerned, cotton piqué and corduroy are the veritable standards of standards.\u003cbr\u003eThe inclusion of herringbone twill as an option is, in itself, exceedingly rare.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYet this is no ordinary herringbone twill.\u003cbr\u003eSalt and pepper.\u003cbr\u003eTranslated literally: 'salt and pepper.'\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJust so, black and white fibers interweave to produce the distinctive grayscale variation characteristic of what is known as \"salt-and-pepper\" fabric.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIn the realm of French workwear, it is known as a choice for trousers and coats, yet a hunting jacket employing this material is a sight one rarely encounters.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis combination of salt-and-pepper herringbone twill cotton is the preeminent factor that renders this jacket \"exceptional among the canonical.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd the crucial detail that determines the era of this piece—one that distinguishes it from later specimens—is the presence of a \"suspended\" game pocket, secured by button rather than sewn directly.\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe secondary fabric within is suspended and buttoned, a construction method particular to hunting jackets of the 1930s era. Such an archaic structure imparts a natural three-dimensionality to the back when worn, a simplicity of form that speaks to the grace of age itself.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYet foremost among all details are the metal \"animal buttons\" that stand in orderly procession across the front closure.\u003cbr\u003eAny discourse on the hunting jacket cannot overlook the presence of these buttons.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRather, one might argue that these buttons are nothing less than the very identity of the hunting jacket itself.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe front closure bears hunting hounds rendered in resolute profile; the breast pockets, waist pockets, and game pocket employ horse motifs—a hunting world meticulously constructed in every detail.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe muted luster acquired by these aged metals carries the patina of antique coins burnished by time—a presence that lends sobriety and restraint to the salt-and-pepper body.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA single small component determines the bearing of an entire garment.\u003cbr\u003eHere lies the perfect example.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe pocket arrangement follows an orthodox configuration, one that might be called the textbook of hunting jacket design.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUpon the chest, two flapped patch pockets, one on each side.\u003cbr\u003eScaled for practical access to ammunition shells and small articles.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAt the waist, two slightly larger flapped patch pockets, positioned left and right.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd the piece de résistance of the French hunting jacket—the game pocket at the back, naturally included.\u003cbr\u003eOriginally conceived to hold the day's quarry, in modern times it proves its utility as a capacious pocket that renders a bag superfluous.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe cuff is not a closed tube, but rather features button tabs—a detail characteristic of hunting jackets from earlier eras.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis adjustment mechanism at the wrist prevents bunching of fabric when shouldering a rifle, and forestalls snagging on branches within brush—a detail born of practical necessity and rational design.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd then, glimpsed when the jacket is worn, the interior pocket beneath.\u003cbr\u003eThis fabric, faded to an eggplant tone, provides an unexpectedly fine accent against the charcoal-gray body.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA hidden detail known only to the wearer.\u003cbr\u003eIn such touches, one perceives the refinement of the tailor's art of that time.\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNo brand label of any kind is present—an anonymous piece of high anonymity.\u003cbr\u003eWe surmise this to be a bespoke commission, likely tailored by a craftsman of considerable skill.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe color is the deep charcoal gray characteristic of salt and pepper.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gray woven from black and white fibers presents a complexity altogether distinct from uniform gray.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe muted silver of the metal animal buttons catches the light within this weathered charcoal gray, a glint that arrests the eye.\u003cbr\u003eThat contrast is, quite simply, compelling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNo size marking is evident, though we estimate it corresponds to a Japanese size M.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBy the measurements alone, it appears to be a golden size suited to Japanese frames, and thus should accommodate a broad range of builds.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThere are signs of wear and some soiling, yet no significant damage impeding use is apparent, and the jacket remains eminently wearable.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTo encounter a specimen of this era in such condition is, in truth, exceedingly rare.\u003cbr\u003eFor those seeking a French hunting jacket in relatively good condition, we offer this with confidence as a piece of genuine merit.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSalt-and-pepper herringbone twill—a fabric choice that upends convention in the French hunting jacket.\u003cbr\u003eThe suspended game pocket—an archaic detail seen only in specimens from the 1930s era.\u003cbr\u003eAnimal buttons in dual motif: hunting hound and horse, in concert.\u003cbr\u003eThe hidden allure of an eggplant-faded interior pocket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThose well versed in the \"canonical\" French hunting jacket will alone perceive the value of this piece as \"the heterodox among the canonical.\"\u003cbr\u003eA specimen of extraordinary rarity, one for which future encounter cannot be assured. Please do not overlook this opportunity.\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"VIEUX ET NOUVEAU","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47065157894322,"sku":"J01070","price":168000.0,"currency_code":"JPY","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0554\/2140\/3314\/files\/202505030506.jpg?v=1771203108","url":"https:\/\/vieuxetnouveau-shop.com\/en\/products\/30s-french-vintage-salt-pepper-hbt-cotton-hunting-jacket","provider":"VIEUX ET NOUVEAU","version":"1.0","type":"link"}