An estimated 1950s French 'Black Moleskin Work Jacket'.
A rare deadstock arrival.
The "Work Jacket", indispensable to French vintage style
Though it bears the word "Work" in its name, it was in fact an eminently practical jacket, widely issued to and worn by the working classes in all manner of workplaces, from mines and factories to railways and farms, in France from the late nineteenth century to the mid-twentieth.
In France at the time, industrialisation and the growth of the cities meant that many workers were employed in jobs involving manual labour, and as the clothing that supported their daily work, the work jacket was indispensable.
It is characterised by a construction built entirely for use and designed with harsh working conditions in mind, such as a fly front, deep patch pockets and a boxy silhouette that does not restrict movement, and it is known to have been widely favoured regardless of trade.
The fabrics used were many, cotton twill, moleskin, cotton piqué, corduroy, wool, linen and more, and it is known that they were chosen according to the environment, the region and the season.
Moleskin in particular, both durable and warm, was highly prized among those doing heavy work, and it remains one of the most popular specifications in the vintage market today.
At the time, companies, government offices and local authorities often issued it in bulk to their staff as a uniform or as standard issue, and many surviving pieces have the company name, the maker or an issue number printed on the label inside.
For this reason, although it was mass-produced, the details vary markedly with the place and period of production, and it is still highly valued today as something that vividly reflects French working culture and the times.
No other workwear suits the phrase "functional beauty" quite so well; the "Work Jacket" is the emblem of French workwear, a piece that carries its plain, robust bearing into the present.
This piece is made in "Moleskin", the great staple cloth of French vintage.
Moleskin, as the name suggests, is prized for a soft, smooth touch that recalls "the skin of a mole".
Touch it and you will feel for yourself a smoothness you would hardly expect of cotton, a reassuring thickness and a refined sheen.
The secret lies in the "satin weave", one of the three basic weaves, built on a repeat of five or more warp and weft threads.
Because the floats are long, it looks as though only one set of threads appears on the face; the weave is tight, and the cloth thick and supple, smooth and strongly lustrous.
It is precisely because the cloth is woven so densely that it resists abrasion and wind, which explains why it was adopted, again and again, as working dress, as workwear, for people labouring in harsh conditions.
This piece is cut generously from "black moleskin", known to be less common than ink blue.
Because black is so versatile, it pulls any outfit together whatever the style, and the more you wear and wash it, the more a dull lustre and deep shadows emerge, giving ageing that is entirely its own.
Being designed for use, it also has all the practicality you need for everyday wear, which is a welcome thing.
Inside is an "embroidered label", red on white, by "VÉTEMENTS DE TRAVAIL DE QUALITÉ".
Pieces bearing the embroidered label, emblematic of the older periods, are what many people are looking for.
Whatever the era, brand or condition, work jackets in black moleskin are, on the whole, few in number and a category of real rarity.
A piece that brings practicality and beauty together at a high level, and lets you savour the best of French workwear.
The size label cannot be confirmed, but it corresponds roughly to a Japanese "XL ~ XXL".
The actual measurements also show a generous size, so it should suit a larger frame without difficulty.
It looks right whether worn true to size or oversized.
Black moleskin jackets this large are seldom seen, so we would especially recommend it to anyone who had given up because of their size.
Being deadstock, the condition leaves nothing to be desired; a good choice if you are looking for a clean piece.
Naturally, there is no significant damage that would affect wear, so it has plenty of life left in it.
The "Black Moleskin Work Jacket", indispensable to any account of French workwear
And it is rare deadstock, too.
The very emblem of "functional beauty", taking practicality and beauty to their height.
A piece that would be the core of a wardrobe, of course, and leaves nothing to be desired as a collector's piece.
Deadstock black moleskin jackets seldom come into our shop either, so if you have been looking for one, do not let this opportunity pass.
