1994SS, STONE ISLAND 『Garment Dyed Double Breasted Cotton Jacket』.
A special acquisition.
STONE ISLAND was founded in 1982 by the legendary designer Massimo Osti in Ravarino, on the outskirts of Modena, Italy.
The brand has developed numerous collections centered on sportswear that reconcile both functionality and design.
From its inception, STONE ISLAND focused on the functionality and design sensibility of military wear, and was among the first to elevate these elements into fashion items.
In 1989, the brand garnered worldwide attention with the development of the Ice Jacket, which shifts in color according to temperature.
By adopting unconventional materials such as stainless steel and bronze, STONE ISLAND continually proposes the latest aesthetics.
And if there is a trademark of STONE ISLAND, it would be Garment Dye.
Garment Dye is the name given to a dyeing process first developed in the early 1970s by Massimo Osti and his colleagues at C.P. Company.
Typically, garments are constructed using pre-dyed fabrics; however, in this process, white or undyed fabrics are used, and dyeing is applied as the final stage after the garment is completely constructed.
The dyeing technology, born through years of research and capable of producing as many as 60,000 colors, represents an unmatched technical achievement that no other brand can rival.
Furthermore, by simultaneously dyeing different compositions and applying distinct chemical approaches to each, Osti employed a technique known as "Double Dye in a Single Bath" to achieve an distinctive tone-on-tone impression.
This technique further elevated Osti's recognition in the industry.
Other notable brands designed by Massimo Osti include C.P. Company, Boneville, and Left Hand.
We present a single piece from STONE ISLAND, featuring Garment Dye—the world's pioneering dyeing technique—released for the 1994SS collection.
This piece carries the Windrose patch, exhibiting the details of Green Edge, the hallmark of archive pieces from around the 1990s.
Green Edge refers to the patch's outer frame executed in a green hue, rendering it a rare item that commands premium prices in the market.
The cotton fabric employed is treated with the aforementioned world-first dyeing technique, Garment Dye, which heightens the depth and vibrancy of color, drawing forth the inherent qualities of the material to their fullest extent.
Upon first wearing a Garment Dye treated piece, one perceives an almost mystical enhancement of beauty.
It emanates a vividness and presence that transcends mere description.
Beyond its commanding presence, the Garment Dye imbues this piece with a design that arrests the eye—one reminiscent of military wear itself.
The double-breasted construction, common to military and workwear traditions, is complemented by snap-button flap pockets positioned at the center—a detail both restrained and arresting in its demeanor.
The cuffs are fitted with adjustable button tabs, allowing the wearer to customize the fit as desired.
A chin strap is affixed to the collar, enabling the option to wear it standing. Worn in this manner, one assumes an unmistakable and distinguished presence that nothing else quite captures.
The front closure employs button fastening.
The color is a red with a subtle pink undertone.
The subtle color irregularities and gradations created by the Garment Dye process impart depth and dimensionality to the jacket, revealing myriad expressions as light plays across its surface.
This is precisely the kind of dyeing that exemplifies STONE ISLAND—a piece that can only be experienced with STONE ISLAND. Personally, I find it most striking when the Windrose patch on the left sleeve is removed and the jacket is worn simply and unadorned.
This particular example is also a coveted Italian-made piece, a specification many seek.
From around the 2000s onward, pieces began to be produced outside Italy, making this a recommendation for those who prize Italian provenance.
Size is labeled as "L"
This corresponds to approximately Japanese size "XL".
The actual measurements reflect a generous proportioning, making it suitable for larger frames.
It accommodates both a fitted and oversized aesthetic with equal aplomb.
The piece bears evidence of wear—discoloration and abrasion—yet presents no significant damage that would impede its use, remaining entirely wearable.
The piece presented here is a particularly rare example from what is known as the "Osti era," designed by Massimo Osti himself.
Items from this period represent a singular and irreplaceable character, found nowhere else in fashion.
Whether as a wardrobe essential or a collector's piece, this requires no qualification.
For those devoted to STONE ISLAND, this is the sort of piece one yearns for. If you have been searching, this occasion warrants your attention.
