An estimated 1930s French 'Black Lightweight Moleskin Work Jacket'.
A truly exceptional arrival.
The "Work Jacket", indispensable to French vintage style
It is said to have been widely worn as "work clothing" by people labouring in the mines, factories and farms of France at the time.
Many fabrics are known, from cotton twill, moleskin and cotton piqué to corduroy and wool, varying with the working environment and the period.
This piece is made in "Moleskin", the great staple cloth of French vintage.
As the name suggests, it is said to take its name from a cloth that recalls the skin of a mole.
Once you touch it you will understand: it is smooth to a degree you would hardly expect of cotton, with a fine sheen.
Most moleskin in circulation is thick, but this piece is a rare one made in a thin moleskin known as "light moleskin", found only in a few pieces from older periods.
In feel it sits just about halfway between the thin moleskin used for grandpa shirts and a medium-weight moleskin.
The secret lies in "the weave".
Moleskin is a cloth made in a "satin weave".
Satin weave is counted as one of the three basic weaves, built on a repeat of five or more warp and weft threads; the floats are long, so that only the warp or only the weft appears on the face.
It is dense, thick, supple and smooth, with a strong sheen.
It was precisely because moleskin is so densely woven, so substantial and so supple that it was chosen as working dress for people who laboured in harsh conditions.
This piece is cut generously from black moleskin, rarer still than blue.
Black is so versatile that many people will have been looking for one.
Having actually been worn as workwear in its day, it is entirely practical.
Whatever the era, brand or condition, work jackets in black moleskin are few and far between.
Among black moleskin jackets, this one has "4 Buttons", a detail known to be rare.
Five buttons down the front is the norm, and by far the most common; even in French workwear, the "4 Buttons" this piece has are known as a rare detail.
One button more or less may seem a small difference, but that small difference has an enormous effect on its "value".
We have had a few pieces with the other rare detail, "6 Buttons", in our shop, but these are, I think, far scarcer even than those.
It also has the much-loved details: a generously rounded collar, an A-line silhouette and V-shaped pockets.
Inside the neck there are traces of where a brand label was once sewn, but sadly it is now missing.
The size label cannot be confirmed. Roughly equivalent to a Japanese "M".
Judging by the actual measurements, it is an ideal size for Japanese builds and should suit a wide range of frames.
It looks right whether worn true to size or oversized.
There are signs of use, such as scuffing, small holes and a missing label, but no significant damage that would affect wear, so it can still be worn for a long while.
"Black Moleskin", whatever the era, brand or condition, comes onto the market far less often than blue moleskin
Pieces from older periods with "4 Buttons" in particular are seldom seen, in Japan or abroad.
This is not the kind of thing money alone can buy, and there is no guarantee we will ever be able to offer another.
A piece that leaves nothing to be desired in the wardrobe, of course, and as a collector's item too.
It is a special piece even among black moleskin jackets, so
if you love unusual things, do not let this opportunity pass.