A Luftwaffe work jacket in Drillich herringbone twill linen, estimated from the 1930s.
An exceptionally rare acquisition.
The Luftwaffe, or German Air Force, was established during the Nazi era from 1935 to 1945 as the aerial branch of the Reichswehr. It was one of three military divisions of the National Socialist German Empire, alongside the Army and Navy.
The Luftwaffe functioned as Nazi Germany's primary military force throughout the Second World War.
At its inception, it rapidly expanded by adopting cutting-edge aviation technology and tactics from around the world. When war began, the Luftwaffe became the core of Blitzkrieg strategy, playing crucial roles in early campaigns including Poland (1939), France (1940), and the Battle of Britain (1940).
Yet the defeat at the Battle of Britain marked a strategic turning point. Subsequently, the Luftwaffe steadily lost power as Allied air superiority grew and German resources dwindled. By war's end, the Luftwaffe had been significantly diminished, and it was formally dissolved with Germany's surrender in 1945.
We present here a Drillich work jacket, the type issued to Luftwaffe personnel as standard base workwear during the years preceding the Second World War.
Drillich is a German term describing a weaving method, specifically referring to herringbone twill fabric. During the Second World War, the Wehrmacht adopted this fabric extensively for both summer workwear and summer combat uniforms, valued above all for its exceptional durability.
Originally issued as unbleached workwear for training and labour, its comfort and practicality led to adoption as summer combat wear once hostilities began. This accounts for its widespread use throughout the Wehrmacht, Kriegsmarine, and Luftwaffe—not merely as workwear, but across a broad spectrum of summer applications.
Though initially designed for training and labour, this garment underwent continuous refinement toward combat efficacy, evolving to meet practical field requirements.
German Drillich production drew reference from the French Bourgeron, and the similarities in detail and fabric character are marked.
While examples in écru (undyed natural linen) exist in this same construction, the specimen presented here is distinguished by an exceptionally uncommon gray colorway.
The vast majority of surviving examples appear in écru, and this gray iteration represents the first I have encountered. One might justly describe it as a phantom piece—such is its scarcity.
Its abbreviated cut, which defines the waist, bears the functional imprint of an era prioritizing utility while simultaneously possessing a refined design sensibility that integrates effortlessly into contemporary dress.
The minimalist fly front closure, though restrained, exerts a defining influence on the jacket's overall character. This approach—stripped of ornament—achieves a quiet presence and a harmonious unity with virtually any ensemble.
The absence of pockets further heightens its distinctive character through sheer simplicity.
The underarm features dual ventilation: both chrysanthemum-shaped eyelets and slit-form vents, designed to prevent moisture accumulation.
The sleeves employ three-dimensional cutting in the forward pitch, lending the silhouette an elegance reminiscent of tailored suiting, despite its military origin.
The neckline is fitted with a button-closure chin strap, conceived to prevent wind infiltration and facilitate an elevated collar stance.
The presence or absence of this chin strap yields a profound difference. When the collar is raised, the resulting presence and atmosphere are altogether singular.
The fabric employed is Drillich—a term specific to German military production—woven in herringbone twill and executed in 100% linen. This material commands considerable regard within vintage markets.
Its resemblance to fine French linen, and the distinctive movement of the weave, accounts for much of its esteem.
Linens of this era possess a palpable superiority evident even to untrained hands. The standard achieved is regarded today as essentially irreproducible, and the fabric alone constitutes considerable value.
Beyond its rarity, viewed as a fashion object, this jacket possesses undeniable presence. We encourage its wearing without reservation.
No size marking is discernible, though the piece appears to correspond to a Japanese size S.
The measured dimensions indicate a compact fit; those of slight build should find it accommodating.
Evidence of wear—soiling, fading, colour variance, and rubbing—is present, though no damage of consequence impedes its use.
German military pieces have commanded increasing attention in recent years. Yet surviving examples remain exceptionally scarce; supply has not kept pace with demand. The historical weight of these objects ensures this.
The Wehrmacht maintains a devoted following, and pieces of this calibre—those who acquire them seldom relinquish them. This is, unquestionably, a covetable archive piece.
It cannot be procured merely through expenditure; we cannot guarantee future availability.
Whether as active wardrobe or as a collection—as design reference—this jacket merits consideration on all counts.
It is rarely encountered, whether domestically or internationally. Those who have sought such pieces, or who possess an affinity for the uncommon, should not overlook this opportunity.
