A black moleskin work jacket by Adolphe Lafont, estimated from the 1940s.
An exceptional arrival.
Adolphe Lafont stands among the most regarded French workwear brands.
The house was founded in 1844 in Lyon, France, by its namesake merchant Adolphe Lafont.
Initially a textile merchant, the business evolved when Adolphe Benoît Lafont, the founder's son, opened a tailoring workshop in 1875.
In subsequent generations, his own son Adolphe Lafont began manufacturing work clothing as the house's foundation.
The first pieces were carpenter trousers in corduroy.
He registered the trademark "Adolphe Lafont Lyon" in 1896, and through generations of craftsmen, the legacy continued until his death in 1952.
From this nearly two-century-old house comes an enduring staple of French workwear: the black moleskin jacket.
A piece crafted in moleskin, the defining textile of French vintage workwear.
The name derives from its resemblance to the skin of a mole.
When handled, one discovers a smoothness and weight altogether unexpected in cotton.
This lies in the weave itself.
Moleskin is woven in a sateen weave, a primary weave structure comprising five or more yarns.
In sateen weaving, the floats are minimal, allowing either the warp or weft to dominate the surface.
The result is high density, substantial weight, remarkable pliability, a smooth hand, and distinctive lustre.
It is precisely these qualities—the dense weave, the substantial body, the flexibility—that made moleskin the natural choice for workwear in the rigours of labour.
This example is rendered in black moleskin, far rarer than its blue counterpart, used throughout.
The versatility of black has drawn many seekers.
This particular piece has faded to an ink-black tone through years of wear, lending it considerable presence.
Paint marks and traces of genuine labour are visible throughout, speaking to its authentic history.
Having served as actual workwear, its functionality is beyond question.
Work jackets in black moleskin are sparse regardless of era, brand, or condition—a commodity rarely encountered.
Bearing the mark of Adolphe Lafont renders it rarer still.
Adolphe Lafont pieces command respect within French workwear circles.
Their worth exceeds that of other brands, and the earlier the piece, the greater its rarity.
The rounded collar, the slightly positioned front buttons, single-stitching—all signal age, and all are in its favour.
Inside rests the embroidered label distinctive to Adolphe Lafont, black ground with red stitching.
This embroidered label is itself a marker of early era, typically found on pieces from the 1940s.
No size marking is visible, though the garment approximates a Japanese medium.
Judged by actual measurements, it strikes a golden proportion for the Japanese frame, accommodating various builds.
Whether worn fitted or oversized, it carries itself well.
Fading, marks, wear, and small losses bear witness to its history, yet no damage impedes wear. It remains serviceable.
Adolphe Lafont occupies an unquestionable place in any discourse on French workwear.
Earlier examples have become decidedly uncommon.
As both a wardrobe piece and a collection, this merits consideration.
Adolphe Lafont black moleskin jackets arrive infrequently here. Should you seek such a piece, this warrants attention.
