A Luftwaffe herringbone twill linen jacket, estimated 1940s.
A special acquisition.
The Luftwaffe, or German Air Force, was established during the Nazi era from 1935 to 1945 as the air branch of the Reichswehr.
It stood alongside the Army and Navy as one of three principal divisions of the Third Reich's military structure.
This "Drillich HBT Linen Jacket" was worn as standard workwear within Luftwaffe installations.
The German military's "Drillich Jacket" is said to have been produced with reference to the French Bourgeron, which accounts for the striking similarity in both detail and fabric character.
The linen possesses a substance and drape comparable to French linen—a weighty texture that moves with an almost organic fluidity. This quality alone commands considerable regard.
Linen of this era remains singular in its excellence, even to the untrained hand. Modern production has yet to replicate such quality, making the fabric itself a worthy artifact.
The Drillich Jacket remains scarce in the market.
Most examples, depending on era, feature five change-button fronts—the most commonly encountered specification.
This particular example, however, is distinguished by milk glass buttons in a concealed placket configuration, rendering it notably uncommon.
The presence of a chin strap—designed for collar-up wear—is another element that merits attention.
The difference between a jacket with and without a chin strap is considerable.
The presence of collar elevation alters the bearing entirely.
Beneath the arms sit both chrysanthemum-shaped and slit-form ventilation apertures, designed to forestall inner humidity.
The sleeves employ a three-dimensional cut construction,imparting a refined tailored quality rarely seen in military wear.
The interior stamps are clearly visible,bearing five numerical markings standard to German military issue.
• Upper left: length to waist or tail.
• Upper right: collar size or neck circumference.
• Center: chest width.
• Lower left: overall length.
• Lower right: sleeve length.
All measurements are expressed in centimeters.
From 1943 onward, examples occasionally bear two additional figures indicating minimum and maximum wearer height.
Some specimens carry manufacturing year notations below, though these were rarely employed—restricted to examples from 1942 onward.
No size marking is visible, though proportions suggest a Japanese size S to M.
Measurements indicate a compact fit, well-suited to more diminutive frames.
There are signs of wear—soil, small losses, minor button damage—yet no structural compromise that would prevent continued wear.
German military items have commanded increasing attention in recent years, yet original pieces remain exceptionally scarce. Demand far exceeds supply.
German military pieces enjoy a devoted following; collectors seldom relinquish such archive material.
Both as functional wardrobe and as a design source or collection piece, this jacket stands complete.
German military pieces arrive at our shop with rare frequency. Should you be seeking such an example, this opportunity warrants consideration.