1956 issue, French Air Force 'M38 Double Breasted Motorcycle Jacket'.
A special acquisition. Notably rare with liner included, arriving as deadstock.
The French Air Force and Space Force (Armée de l'Air et de l'Espace) represents the official aerial service of the French Republic, formed primarily by the Army (Armée de Terre), Navy (Marine nationale), and National Gendarmerie (Gendarmerie nationale).
Its origins trace back to 1912 during the First World War, when the "Aéronautique Militaire" was established as an aviation branch of the Army. In 1934, ahead of other European nations, the independent Air Force (Armée de l'Air) was born—a pioneering development that drew global attention as a blueprint for modern military aviation.
During the Second World War, the service faced considerable hardship against German invasion, yet following defeat, it was reorganized under Charles de Gaulle's Free French Forces (Forces Françaises Libres), contributing to Allied aerial operations across North Africa, Italy, and the Western Front.
In the postwar era, NATO membership positioned the Air Force as a key Western aviation power during the Cold War. Strategic bomber units, nuclear capabilities, and anti-Soviet air defense infrastructure were developed.
It also served as part of France's independent nuclear deterrent, the Force de frappe, maintaining strategic autonomy. In 2020, responding to rapidly evolving security challenges in space, the service formally renamed itself from "Armée de l'Air" to "Armée de l'Air et de l'Espace," evolving into a combined air and space force.
Today, centered on the Rafale fighter, it operates cutting-edge combat squadrons and participates actively in NATO operations, UN peacekeeping, and counter-terrorism missions such as Operation Barkhane in the Sahel. Through coordination with strategic airlifters, tanker aircraft, and early warning systems, it maintains rapid-response capability as a power-projection air force of considerable global standing.
From this lineage comes the "M38 Double Breasted Motorcycle Jacket"—a cornerstone design.
By now, this model requires little introduction; it is recognized across both newcomers and seasoned collectors alike.
Adopted in 1938 by French military motorcycle units, as its designation suggests. Tank crews also wore this garment during its service.
The history of French military motorcycles extends far back, originating in the First World War.
Motorcycles served then as rapid messengers, playing a crucial role in battlefield communications and coordination. During the Second World War, light mechanized and reconnaissance units employed motorcycles extensively.
During the 1940 Nazi German invasion of France particularly, dragoon regiments were organized with a motorcycle company per battalion. These units provided high-speed reconnaissance, liaison duties, and battlefield mobility.
The design reflects practical reasoning throughout—oversized cut for wear over uniform, heavy canvas construction to mitigate wind during operation.
This example, distinguished by its greenish tone compared to standard variants, is believed to represent the "air force model."
The gently curved front closure and dual rows of buttons—the signature "double breasted" configuration—constitute defining details of the design.
Military-specific features abound: prominent epaulettes, button-fastened hand warmer pockets, a belt-fixing tab on the left front only, and an open-back construction for ventilation—each element serves its functional purpose.
The collar stands notably high with substantial rounded proportions, reinforced with a chin strap for wind and thermal protection.
Particularly noteworthy is the presence of the liner, which this example retains completely. Loss of this component is common among surviving pieces, making complete examples extraordinarily rare in collections.
The intact liner alone represents significant value—both as a collectible and as a functional garment.
Inside, size designations and French military stamps are visible. A "56" marking within the stamps suggests 1956 issuance.
When the collar is raised and strap fastened, both functionality and visual presence transform dramatically. The chin strap proves essential to the impression created—affecting atmosphere substantially and conveying a particular vitality to the wearer.
The raglan sleeve construction preserves arm mobility. Even when oversized, the fabric falls naturally along the shoulder line, maintaining elegant proportion.
The A-line silhouette that expands toward the hem merits particular attention. In wear, it describes a classically refined line, and despite military provenance, projects considerable sophistication.
Size marking reads "96 - 100," corresponding roughly to L to XL in Japanese sizing.
Actual measurements confirm generous proportions, suitable for larger frames. Whether worn snug or oversized, the garment commands presence.
As a deadstock piece, the condition is beyond reproach. No tears or significant damage present, though light soiling from extended storage is visible. No damage impedes wear—the jacket remains entirely serviceable.
The apex of French military outerwear: the M38 Double Breasted Motorcycle Jacket.
Double breasted configuration grounded in functional design, graceful A-line silhouette. Engineered for military service yet bearing an unmistakable refinement.
This example arrives as an exceptionally rare specimen: air force variant, liner intact, deadstock condition.
Storied design coupled with character that deepens with wear. A piece worthy of serious consideration for any thoughtful wardrobe.