Estimated 1950s, Swedish Army 'Dispatch Rider Leather Motorcycle Jacket'.
A remarkable arrival.
Known in Swedish as "Ordonnansjacka", this refers to the motorcycle jacket worn by the dispatch rider units of the Swedish Army.
The early iterations of this jacket trace back to 1915, with the earliest examples constructed from goat skin. Following a rise in leather prices in 1955, the military began experimenting with alternative materials, transitioning from goat skin to grey cotton canvas, and subsequently to green cotton canvas by 1960.
The green cotton canvas variant—likely the most commonly encountered today—remained in service throughout the latter half of the twentieth century.
The example presented here represents an early iteration, crafted from goat skin, and among the most difficult to obtain of all Swedish Army motorcycle jackets.
Manufacturing was undertaken by A.BOL Mats Larsson, a brand based in Märlång, Sweden, renowned for its leather goods production.
This maker supplied high-quality cold-weather garments to the Swedish Army throughout the early twentieth century, particularly during the Second World War.
Though the material varies by era, the overarching design remains consistent.
The asymmetrical silhouette is distinctive to the Swedish Army motorcycle jacket, designed to prevent wind penetration. An additional layer of button-fastening on the interior creates a dual-closure construction.
A single, substantial flap pocket is positioned at the left front, originally intended to carry maps and dispatch materials.
The hem is fitted with hardware that allows closure via D-ring attachment. Drawcords on either side permit adjustment of fit.
All buttons are generously scaled in plastic, designed to be operable while wearing gloves.
The exterior is constructed entirely from goat skin.
Goat skin is sourced from mature animals, possessing tensile strength that surpasses bovine leather whilst remaining less than half the thickness—remarkably lightweight yet dense in fiber structure and exceptionally durable. Despite its inherent strength, the leather itself remains supple and yields readily to extension.
Many assume leather jackets demand rigidity and discomfort. This example benefits from the inherent qualities of its original material and the gradual softening that accompanies wear, making it accessible even to those typically averse to leather.
The interior is lined in wool, providing exceptional thermal insulation. There is no question that this garment excels both in design and function.
Among military garments, this design is notably engineered. Its design vocabulary has been sampled by numerous contemporary brands—a testament to its conceptual rigor.
Tagged as size 50, equivalent to approximately XL in Japanese sizing.
The actual measurements reflect a generous cut, suitable for larger frames. In the manner of military tailoring, the relaxed proportions remain distinctly handsome.
Signs of wear—surface marks, abrasion, minor creasing, and material-inherent patina—are present. However, no structural damage that would compromise wearability has been observed, and the jacket remains entirely serviceable.
The engineered geometry of this Dispatch Rider Motorcycle Jacket is singular. Original examples in goat skin, representing the earliest production, are not items that surface through searching alone.
This model enjoys greater recognition internationally than domestically. Its market value has risen steadily and is expected to become increasingly difficult to procure.
Should size and condition align with your requirements, this is an essential piece.
Beyond its function as a wearable item, it serves equally as a collection piece and design reference. This is a work that presents itself rarely, whether domestically or abroad. If you have been searching for such an object, or if rarified garments hold appeal, this opportunity warrants serious consideration.
