Circa 1990s, a SASS (Special Air Sea Services) 'DPM Camouflage Ripstop Windproof Smock'.
A special acquisition.
SASS (Special Air Sea Services) was a military equipment manufacturer based in Lancaster, northwest England, producing and supplying advanced military-specification smocks, vests, and related equipment.
As a small-scale operation, detailed records remain scarce, though the company is believed to have been active primarily during the 1980s through the early 2000s.
Official government contracts from the Ministry of Defence (MOD) typically require NSN (NATO Stock Numbers) or procurement reference numbers, yet no formally documented SASS products appear in such records. This suggests they likely did not manufacture official issue equipment.
However, it is not inconceivable that certain personnel from specialist units—SBS, SAS, and similar—may have acquired SASS products through personal purchase or as task-specific equipment when unsatisfied with standard-issue alternatives.
Though civilian in production, SASS garments saw minimal market circulation. Among military collectors familiar with this background, they command considerable value.
From SASS, a manufacturer held in high regard by discerning collectors, comes a piece that merges the functional beauty and durability of British military design with genuine practicality and considered aesthetic.
The 'DPM (Disruptive Pattern Material) Camouflage' represents a landmark in modern military camouflage, formally adopted by the British Army in the late 1960s.
As its name suggests, DPM was designed to 'disrupt'—to break up outline and form. Building upon the lineage of the Second World War's 'Brushstroke Camouflage' and 'Windproof' patterns, DPM achieved significantly improved integration with natural terrain through a more refined layering of tonal gradation.
Initially introduced in the '1966 Pattern' combat dress, the refined '1968 Pattern' and subsequent iterations became the standard across British Armed Forces uniforms and equipment for decades.
The canonical configuration comprises four colours—black, dark brown, red-brown, and olive green—arranged to evoke tree shadow and topographical variation, optimized for temperate European environments.
From the 1970s onward, specialist units including SAS (Special Air Service) and Royal Marines (Royal Marines Commando) favoured DPM, particularly the enhanced 'Windproof Smock' variant with superior wind and water resistance.
Its proven reliability in special operations exerted considerable influence across NATO throughout the Cold War.
Surplus stocks were distributed to former colonies and allied nations, resulting in numerous derivative patterns adopted by South African, Omani, Malaysian, and Qatari armed forces among others—a testament to DPM's extensive reach.
Though the British military transitioned to 'Multi-Terrain Pattern (MTP)' from the mid-2000s onward, DPM retains enduring popularity and is recognised as possessing considerable historical and collector value.
Turning to the details of this DPM-patterned piece.
The front features the characteristic four-pocket configuration found on military-issue windproof smocks.
Upper chest pockets are fitted with button-down flaps on either side.
The flap buttons employ rubber-coated military-specification hardware, engineered for reliable operation and water resistance in adverse conditions.
The lower hip pockets are generously proportioned and three-dimensional in construction, convenient for tool and accessory carry.
The hood possesses substantial structure, with drawcords allowing infinitely adjustable fit.
Noteworthy is the adoption of the 'Fixlock' cord-stopper, manufactured by FIXFABRIKEN of Gothenburg, Sweden—a detail not to be overlooked.
For those versed in military equipment, the Fixlock requires little introduction. It saw widespread adoption across NATO armed forces, prized for its reliable construction and single-handed operation capability.
The front closure employs a two-layer system: Velcro combined with a double zip.
This configuration simultaneously prevents wind penetration and permits rapid fastening—a high-function detail conceived for adverse-weather operation.
The zip sliders are fitted with OPTI brand zippers and include fabric pull-tabs.
The design prioritises operation even when gloved—true field specification.
Additionally, drawcords are integrated into both the waist and hem.
The waist drawcord refines silhouette whilst enhancing wind-resistance and insulation; the hem drawcord seals against cold air infiltration and permits adjustment of silhouette nuance.
Whereas the previous SASS smock arrival featured Velcro straps, this example is finished with olive-coloured knitted rib cuffs sewn at the wrists.
These rib cuffs carry significance both functionally and aesthetically.
Functionally, they sit snugly at the wrist, effectively sealing against cold air. Unlike Velcro, the elasticity inherent in knitted ribbing conforms naturally to any wrist dimension.
Aesthetically, the rib gathering at the cuff hem lends definition even to oversized proportions. For smaller frames, rather than appearing slack, a characteristic military bunching emerges at the wrist—a silhouette detail in itself.
The grid-like weave visible on the fabric surface indicates ripstop construction.
Should damage occur, the structure contains any tear, preventing propagation. The weave offers superior abrasion resistance and practical durability.
Further, the blend ratio achieves a precise equilibrium between cotton's inherent softness and polyester's lightness and quick-drying properties.
Extended wear remains breathable and comfortable, rendering this piece equally suited to daily wear and outdoor use.
Size marking reads 'CHEST 112 - 117 cm'
Approximately XL to XXL in Japanese sizing.
The actual measurements confirm considerable proportions, easily accommodating larger frames.
The generous military smock silhouette demonstrates striking compatibility with contemporary streetwear.
As noted, the wrist rib cuffs gather excess fabric, permitting balanced proportions even for smaller builds.
Minor signs of wear are present, including light abrasion.
The sleeve zip tape exhibits slight fraying; however, the slider mechanism functions without impediment.
Careful handling during operation will ensure extended service life.
Serious military collectors often seek SASS products. Though relatively recent in manufacture date, examples remain exceedingly scarce in circulation.
Equally compelling as a working wardrobe piece or collecting item.
Rarely encountered domestically or internationally, this represents an opportunity not to be overlooked for those actively searching or simply drawn to uncommon pieces.
