A 1995 example of the Barbour 'Longshoreman'.
A noteworthy arrival.
Barbour was founded in 1894 by John Barbour in South Shields, northeast England, establishing itself as a British outdoor lifestyle brand.
While the label now releases numerous items for town wear, it began as workwear—providing durable oilcloth to sailors, fishermen, and other dock workers.
In 1908, his son Malcolm Barbour created the company's first mail-order catalogue. By 1917, sales through these catalogues accounted for 75 percent of the business, both domestically and abroad.
Duncan Barbour, Malcolm's son, held a deep knowledge of motorcycle apparel. In 1936, he unveiled a motorcycle suit that quickly gained recognition. Between 1936 and 1977, Britain's International team riders wore them almost exclusively.
When Duncan was conscripted in 1939, Malcolm and his wife took over operations and developed the 'Ursula Suit', which became standard issue for British submarine forces. Captain George Phillips, commanding officer of a U-class submarine, played a significant role in its production at the time.
In 1974, the Duke of Edinburgh granted the first Royal Warrant. In 1982, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II bestowed a second. In 1987, the Prince of Wales granted a third Royal Warrant.
That Barbour has secured these distinctions—difficult to obtain and even more difficult to maintain—speaks plainly enough to its quality.
Royal Warrants were awarded by only three individuals: Queen Elizabeth, the Duke of Edinburgh, and the Prince of Wales (now only the latter holds this authority). Only warrant-holding brands may display the Royal Arms. Yet these are reviewed and renewed every five years—a stringent process where even established warrant holders risk losing their status. That Barbour has maintained three warrants continuously is, frankly, remarkable.
The piece presented here is a 'Longshoreman' from the three-crest period, produced between 1987 and 2000.
Barbour differentiates its models by use: the 'Bedale' for riding, the 'Beaufort' for shooting, and so on.
The 'Longshoreman'—literally 'near-shore fisherman'—is a smock jacket made for duck shooting. Its rear hem is lengthened for mud and water; the zip is absent, making for a deliberately simple construction.
While this is indeed a three-crest example, its scarcity ranks among the highest of all vintage Barbour pieces.
First released in 1991, it was discontinued within a few years—a phantom model that collectors have long coveted. A reissue came in 2004, but it differs markedly from the original: a brand embroidery was added to the front, the length shortened. It is, in essence, a different garment.
A pullover construction unique to Barbour; an integrated hood; a half-button fly; kangaroo pockets—details that seem almost incongruous with the Barbour ethos.
The waxed cotton employed is genuinely heavyweight. Compared to the Bedale's standard six-ounce cloth, this is substantially thicker and more rugged in character.
The colour is a light brown, close to 'Bark'.
Barbour is known for sage green and navy—the expected palette—but this piece arrives in a scarce brown tone. This shade frequently appeared on 1990s examples of the Beaufort and Moorland models.
The shoulder construction employs raglan sleeves—a single-piece cut. Compared to set-in sleeves, this allows freer movement of the shoulder and arm, lending considerable functional advantage. The single-piece sleeve hangs perpendicular to gravity, creating a more elegant drop-shoulder silhouette.
No size tag is present, though the proportions correspond roughly to a Japanese XL.
The measurements suggest a generous fit; those of larger build would find this entirely wearable.
Soiling, oil-staining, and the characteristic odour of aged waxed cotton are evident—marks of use, naturally. No damage of consequence appears, however; the piece remains serviceable.
The 'Longshoreman' stands as Barbour's most singular model. Among the company's entire catalogue, it possesses a uniqueness of detail and presence that makes it, without question, an object of genuine desire for the devoted collector.
Vintage Barbour carries an aura the current production cannot match. This, perhaps, is the primary reason one seeks out examples from the past.
Pieces of this rarity seldom pass through our doors. Should you be searching for one, the opportunity warrants attention.
