1996 AW, STONE ISLAND 『Garment Dyed Detachable Hood Raglan Sleeve Cotton Jacket』.
A special item arrival.
STONE ISLAND is a fashion brand founded in 1982 in Ravarino, outside Modena, Italy, by legendary designer Massimo Osti.
The brand has developed numerous collections centered on sportswear that balance both functionality and design.
From its inception, the brand focused on the functionality and design of military wear, becoming the first to elevate these elements as fashion items.
In 1989, the brand developed the "Ice Jacket," which changes color with temperature, drawing global attention.
Adopting unconventional materials such as stainless steel and bronze, STONE ISLAND continually proposes the latest aesthetics.
The signature of STONE ISLAND, however, is "Garment Dye."
Garment Dye is the name given to a dyeing process first developed in the early 1970s by Massimo Osti and colleagues at C.P. Company.
Typically, garments are constructed from pre-dyed fabric. With this process, however, white or undyed fabric is used, and dyeing occurs as the final step after the garment is fully constructed.
The dyeing technology, developed through years of research and capable of producing up to 60,000 colors, represents an overwhelming technical achievement unmatched by other brands.
The brand further employed a technique called "Double Dye in a Single Bath," simultaneously dyeing different fiber compositions while applying distinct chemical approaches to each, resulting in the distinctive "tone-on-tone" impressions.
This method brought Massimo Osti further recognition.
Other notable brands designed by Massimo Osti include C.P. Company, Boneville, and Left Hand.
From STONE ISLAND, we introduce a garment featuring "Garment Dye," the world's pioneering dyeing technique, released in 1996 AW.
Beyond the commanding presence of the Garment Dye, this piece draws the eye with RASO GOMMATO, a proprietary fabric of the brand.
While the color is unconventional in the best sense, the details remain austere.
Detachable hood, slash zip pockets positioned at the center, side vents—minimal details executed with functional precision.
The cuffs feature adjustable velcro tabs, allowing one to tailor the fit.
The collar also includes a velcro chin strap, enabling an upright collar stance.
Worn this way, the piece acquires an unmistakable presence.
The side vents, also employed in suit jackets, feature zip closures, allowing adaptation to different wearing occasions.
Mobility and elegance, both within reach.
The front closure employs a double-breasted construction with both zip and button fastening.
The zip slider features unmarked hardware.
The piece includes a windrose patch, bearing the "Green Edge" detail—a hallmark of archive items from the 1990s and earlier.
Green Edge refers to the patch's outer frame rendered in green, a rare attribute commanding premium prices on the secondary market.
This example features 100% cotton fabric, inviting the natural patina inherent to natural fibers with time.
The weight permits year-round wear.
Applied to the cotton fabric is Garment Dye, the pioneering dyeing technique mentioned above, intensifying color depth and vibrancy while maximizing the material's inherent character.
The adoption of RASO GOMMATO, one of STONE ISLAND's signature fabrics, further defines this piece.
RASO GOMMATO is a foundational fabric introduced in 1984 during the brand's formative years.
A military-derived cotton sateen treated with polyurethane coating, it is distinguished by exceptional durability and water resistance.
The color: red-orange, balancing energy with warmth.
A vibrant tone where red's passion and orange's cheerfulness dissolve into one another—commanding visual attention while maintaining softness, achieving an understated natural radiance that settles effortlessly into daily life.
As an accent it functions with authority; as a singular statement piece, it possesses the strength to complete an entire composition.
The subtle color variations and gradations achieved through Garment Dye impart depth and dimensionality across the jacket, revealing varied expressions as light shifts.
Upon first experience of a Garment Dyed piece, one perceives a mysterious enhancement in its beauty.
It radiates a clarity and presence difficult to articulate in words.
This is STONE ISLAND dyeing in its truest form—an experience available nowhere else.
Personally, I would suggest removing the windrose patch from the left sleeve and wearing this simply, unadorned.
This example is Italian-made, sought after by many collectors.
In subsequent years, production shifted from Italy, making Italian examples increasingly desirable for those who prioritize origin.
The raglan sleeve construction—broadening mobility in the arms—is a further welcome detail.
Even when worn oversized, the fabric will fall in line with the shoulders, ensuring clean silhouette.
Size marked: M
Equivalent to approximately Japanese L to XL.
Actual measurements indicate substantial proportions, accommodating larger frames without concern.
The velcro cuff construction allows even smaller frames to achieve a stacked sleeve silhouette.
Signs of use are visible—scuffing, minor wear, a missing zip slider—yet no structural damage impedes wearing.
Released in 1996 after Massimo Osti stepped back from design, succeeded by Paul Harvey, this example bears the Green Edge detail.
While not strictly from the "Osti period," STONE ISLAND's refined aesthetic—simple yet sophisticated—remains intact.
Worthy as daily wear and as a collection piece.
For collectors devoted to STONE ISLAND, this is a covetable example. Do not overlook this opportunity.
