1997SS, STONE ISLAND 'Garment Dyed Lino Flax Cotton Jacket'.
A special item arrival.
STONE ISLAND was founded in 1982 in Ravarino, on the outskirts of Modena, Italy, by the legendary designer Massimo Osti.
The brand has developed numerous collections centered on sportswear that harmonize functionality with design.
From its inception, the brand has focused on the functionality and design qualities of military wear, elevating them to fashion items before anyone else.
In 1989, STONE ISLAND developed the 'Ice Jacket', which changed color with temperature, garnering worldwide attention.
The brand continues to propose the latest styles by employing unconventional materials such as stainless steel and bronze.
And perhaps the signature of STONE ISLAND is the 'Garment Dye' technique.
Garment Dye is the name given to a dyeing process first developed in the early 1970s by Massimo Osti and his collaborators at C.P. Company.
Conventionally, garments are constructed from pre-dyed fabric; however, this process uses undyed or raw fabric, with the final dyeing applied after the garment is fully constructed.
Through years of research, the resulting dyeing technology—spanning some 60,000 possible colors—remains unrivaled in its technical sophistication.
Furthermore, the technique of 'Double Dye in a Single Bath' allows different fiber compositions to be dyed simultaneously, with distinct chemical approaches applied to each, producing striking tone-on-tone effects.
This innovation brought Massimo Osti further recognition.
Other notable brands associated with Massimo Osti include C.P. Company, Boneville, and Left Hand.
This piece from STONE ISLAND showcases the 'Garment Dye' technique—pioneering globally—and was released in the 1997SS collection.
It features the Windrose patch bearing hallmarks of the 'Green Edge' detail, the signature of archive pieces from the 1990s and earlier.
Green Edge refers to a rare iteration where the patch border is rendered in green, commanding premium prices in the secondary market.
The interior preserves a complete, undamaged 'Piece Number' label—a welcome detail for collectors.
This particular example employs STONE ISLAND's familiar 'Lino Flax' blend fabric.
Composed primarily of 'Flax'—the raw material of linen—with a small proportion of polyamide, the fabric marries linen's characteristic sheen and lightness with the durability inherent to synthetics.
When the Lino Flax and cotton fabrications are subjected to the pioneering 'Garment Dye' process, the color achieves remarkable depth and vibrancy, with the material's inherent qualities brought fully to the fore.
Upon first wearing a garment dyed piece, one recognizes a certain transcendent quality—a beauty that seems to have manifested through something ineffable.
It radiates a vivacity and presence difficult to articulate.
For all its commanding presence, the garment dye itself belies a fundamentally restrained design vocabulary.
An asymmetrical flap pocket positioned at the left hem commands immediate attention, offering practical utility for small effects while functioning as a design accent.
The rear features a pair of vertical slits—ostensibly for ventilation—which enhance the jacket's breathability while maintaining visual balance throughout the composition.
These slits evoke game pockets, suggesting a fusion of tradition and contemporary sensibility.
At the hem, a button-adjusted belt allows for infinitely variable fit, enabling one to shift the silhouette according to personal preference.
The front closure employs a concealed button construction with two layers of fabric.
Only the top button is visible, creating a refined, minimal aesthetic.
The color is a soft brown-beige with subtle pink undertones.
The subtle color variations and gradations inherent to garment dye create depth and dimensionality across the jacket, revealing a complex and beautiful palette akin to brushwork.
This warm brown-beige tone with pink inflections stands apart as a singular piece, certain to arrest attention.
This example is notably 'Made in Italy'.
By the 2000s, many pieces had shifted production away from Italy proper, so this Italian-produced specimen holds particular appeal for those who value that provenance.
Size marked 'L'
Corresponds to approximately Japanese size 'XL'.
Given the generous measurements, this piece accommodates larger frames without reservation.
It reads equally well worn fitted or oversized.
Minor thread pulls and signs of wear are present, though no significant damage impairs wearing. The garment remains readily wearable.
Following Massimo Osti's departure from design in 1996 and Paul Harvey's assumption of the role, this piece retains the 'Green Edge' designation.
While not from the strictly 'Osti era', it upholds STONE ISLAND's hallmarks—restrained design imbued with quiet refinement.
Equally compelling as a wardrobe staple or collector's piece.
Those devoted to STONE ISLAND will recognize this as a significant find.
