A 1979 Burberrys single raglan rider coat, crafted in England.
A special acquisition.
Made in the UK.
A rare specimen: one-piece sleeve construction, 100% cotton, tamamushi colourway, and original liner included.
Burberrys was founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, England, by Thomas Burberry, establishing itself as one of Britain's most distinguished heritage houses.
In 1879, inspired by the protective garments worn by farmers, the brand developed Gabardine—a revolutionary fabric renowned for its durability and water resistance.
The patent was secured in 1888, with exclusive manufacturing rights held until 1917.
In 1912, Burberrys patented the Tielocken, a coat design that remains celebrated to this day.
When the First World War erupted in 1914, the military requested modifications to the Tielocken to suit trench warfare. The resulting Trench Coat—fitted with D-ring fastenings for suspending grenades, swords, and water bottles—was officially adopted by the British Army and Navy.
In 1901, the Equestrian Knight emerged as the brand's first logo mark, selected through public competition and inspired by the familiar image of a mounted horseman.
The emblem depicts a knight in the saddle, embodying the brand's classical aesthetic and unwavering commitment to quality.
The flag held by the knight bears the inscription "Prorsum"—meaning "forward"—symbolising the brand's pioneering spirit and appetite for innovation.
In 1924, the Burberry Check made its debut as a rainwear lining, becoming an iconic pattern that remains a registered trademark of the house today.
From a heritage spanning more than 150 years, we present a Burberrys rider coat—a model designed for horsemanship, combining fundamental design with the rarity of one-piece sleeve construction.
Conventional Burberrys coats employ two primary sleeve configurations: set-in and raglan sleeves. Should the coat not fit precisely, the shoulders tend to bunch unnaturally, creating an effect reminiscent of tailored shoulder padding.
The one-piece sleeve, by contrast, is prized for its elegant shoulder line.
Standard two-piece raglan construction features seaming at the upper sleeve and under-arm. The one-piece sleeve, however, wraps the arm in continuous fabric, with a single seam running only under the arm.
Though seemingly minor, this distinction profoundly affects the silhouette.
Because the fabric falls perpendicular to gravity, the one-piece sleeve creates a pronounced drop shoulder—a hallmark of refined proportion.
Even when worn oversized, the one-piece construction allows for contemporary ease without sacrificing shape. It is sought after precisely for this reason.
The one-piece sleeve is exceptionally scarce; estimates suggest only one specimen in a thousand, representing scarcely one percent of Burberrys production.
This example is constructed from 100% cotton—a specification many collectors actively pursue.
Pure cotton possesses a firmness and tactile richness absent in cotton-synthetic blends, imparting an inherent elegance.
For the vintage enthusiast, the commitment to natural fibre throughout holds particular appeal.
As pure cotton ages, characteristic wear patterns develop across the fabric—a patina that speaks to genuine use. This lends the coat a relaxed, lived-in quality compared to blended fabrics, permitting versatile styling.
The garment's timeless British refinement—evident in its silhouette—remains another source of enduring appeal.
The pronounced A-line flare towards the hem creates an exceptionally elegant and graceful proportion when worn.
While the Balmacaan configuration dominates, this specimen represents a scarce variant: a belted riding model known as the Rider Coat.
The distinction may appear subtle at first glance, yet the belt at the sleeve and waist transforms the overall impression substantially.
The dual-wear potential allows the silhouette to be redefined by cinching the belt, offering sartorial flexibility according to occasion and mood.
As a riding coat, it incorporates a detail absent from standard Balmacaan styles: deeply inverted pleats across the back—a mark of considered luxury.
Furthermore,this example retains its original liner—an anomaly, as most specimens lack this component. The liner, constructed in 100% wool, detaches via an OPTI zip fastener for ease of removal.
The colourway is tamamushi—a sought-after shade.
Tamamushi alone elevates market regard substantially. Its iridescent character and distinctive presence possess an undeniable allure.
Although many contemporary brands now offer tamamushi iterations, only vintage examples possess the authentic patina that defines the palette. For the serious collector, such a coat merits acquisition.
The lining eschews the familiar Burberry Check, instead employing a restrained check pattern in tones that harmonise with the exterior, permitting understated elegance.
Size marking: "52 RL"
Equivalent to Japanese sizes L to XL.
Measured dimensions indicate a generous fit, accommodating larger frames without compromise.
As noted, the one-piece sleeve construction ensures that even at generous sizing, the silhouette remains refined.
The coat displays evidence of use: minor soil, surface wear, small punctures, and a missing belt loop. However, no damage substantial enough to impede wear is present.
When one considers vintage coats, Burberrys invariably occupies the foremost position.
The topcoats that emerge from the Burberrys archive transcend era and trend, constituting an eternal wardrobe foundation.
As seasons turn and the wearing of coats resumes, the hunt for one-piece Burberrys specimens intensifies, and availability grows limited.
Whether as everyday wear or as a collection cornerstone, this coat withstands scrutiny.
For those seeking a foundational coat possessed of timeless character—one that may serve as a lifelong companion—we recommend this example without hesitation. Should you be pursuing such a piece, this opportunity warrants consideration.
