Dating to the early 2000s, this is a ARNYS PARIS 'Forestière Jacket'.
A truly exceptional arrival.
ARNYS PARIS was founded in 1933 when Janckel Granvelle, a Ukrainian-Jewish entrepreneur, opened his shop at 14 rue de Sèvres on the Left Bank of Paris.
It was once said that 'Arnys represented the Left Bank, whilst Hermès represented the Right Bank'—a legendary maison synonymous with the Seine's Left Bank. Where the Right Bank carried aristocratic, conservative sensibilities, the Left Bank embodied a more populist, innovative, and artistic spirit.
Arnys interpreted French tailoring tradition and classical menswear through its own distinctive lens, establishing a signature aesthetic.
Through refined design and premium materials, the house expressed an utterly French elegance. While respecting the foundational structure of classical business wear, subtle modifications—in pocket placement, jacket silhouette—yielded a striking visual presence and streamlined proportions.
Such was Arnys's stature alongside Hermès that every piece represented first-rate craftsmanship. The manufacturing philosophy was so exacting—different factories commissioned for different items—that every piece carries an unmistakable quality.
In 2012, LVMH acquired Arnys, and the house ceased to exist. Years later, its trademark was sold to Berluti, leaving the brand with no institutional presence today.
Arnys held a crucial position in French menswear, known for its distinctive design and exceptional tailoring. Its closure marked the end of an era in Paris fashion.
Among Arnys's output, the most coveted piece remains the timeless 'Forestière Jacket'.
The 'Forestière' (Guardian of the Forest)—Arnys's casual standard—originated in 1947 as a special commission for Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), the visionary architectural theorist.
Le Corbusier sought a jacket both comfortable and stylish, one that would not interfere with his movements when raising and lowering his arms at the blackboard or drafting table.
Inspiration came from a hunting jacket worn by the gamekeeper Gaston Modot in Jean Renoir's 1939 film 'La Règle du Jeu'. Léon Granvelle, Arnys's second-generation proprietor, crafted the commission.
The Forestière thus prioritizes ease of movement: sleeves possess the consistent width of kimono sleeves, whilst shoulders dispense with lining or internal structure.
Le Corbusier's original commission featured a black corduroy shell with black silk lining—a palette reflecting his architectural preference for black, an intentional choice by Granvelle.
Le Corbusier actively curated his archive; the scarcity of photographs documenting his worn Forestière likely reflects a deliberate choice to preserve his idealized, intellectual image.
By the 1950s, the Forestière entered Arnys's prêt-à-porter line, swiftly becoming the house's signature.
Front buttons bear Arnys's distinctive marbled border with 'ARNYS-PARIS' inscription. Such refinement in a single button speaks to design sensibility perhaps unique to Arnys.
Details throughout embody Arnys's ethos, though what truly commands attention is the piece's characteristic chromatic sensitivity—evident in this example.
The shell presents a sophisticated brown-grey—an understated, mature palette. The lining, by contrast, introduces gold and turquoise blue—a seemingly opposite impression.
Incongruous pairings dissolve before such restraint and precision. This chromatic vocabulary represents Arnys's singular genius—a proprietary experience.
Roll the sleeves and the turquoise reveals itself in bursts of saturated color. This, perhaps, is how the Forestière ought to be worn—in the spirit of Arnys.
This distinctive palette originated from Janckel Granvelle's wife, who was Japanese. The sensibility draws from the refined chromatic traditions of the kimono.
Beautiful. There is no other word.
The fabric is 100% cotton. As a year-round material, it suits extended wear across seasons.
The cotton employed in the Forestière possesses a subtle character—a slight raised nap reminiscent of peach skin or moleskin—yielding a smooth, tactile comfort.
The interior carries the Forestière's signature label.
Elegant design, tailoring, material, color.
This convergence of elements produces a piece worthy of the designation 'lifetime garment'—something to be worn without concern for fleeting trends. For those seeking timeless wardrobe foundations, this merits serious consideration.
It elevates the wearer's presence, possesses sufficient versatility to integrate into any composition, whilst maintaining a distinct identity. For those in pursuit of classic style that transcends time, this is offered with confidence.
Arnys pieces frequently appear in Italian production, yet this example—rare—is French-made. A significant point for those who favor French manufacture.
The size marking reads '50'—the most sought size. In Japanese sizing, this corresponds to 'M to L'.
Based on actual measurements, this represents a golden size for Japanese proportions, accommodating a range of builds. Contemporary catalogues show the Forestière worn with dropped shoulders, oversized—a silhouette that suits smaller frames as well.
Minor soiling reflects its history of wear, though no significant damage impairs function. The jacket remains entirely wearable.
ARNYS PARIS—now extinct—surfaces rarely in any era or iteration. From this legendary maison, once mentioned alongside Hermès, comes a piece of considerable refinement.
The 'Forestière Jacket,' regarded as a masterwork, proves difficult to locate within the vintage market. It merits the designation 'lifetime garment'.
This is not merchandise secured through expenditure alone; future availability cannot be guaranteed.
Essential to any wardrobe, equally valuable as a design reference or collectible.
Recent editorial focus has rekindled interest. Given the brand's obsolescence, appreciation seems certain. Those seeking this piece are encouraged to consider it without delay.