Circa 1940s, a French-made Blue Metis half-zip pullover work short jacket.
The work jacket—an indispensable element of French vintage style.
These garments were widely distributed as workwear among those laboring in French coal mines, factories, and farms during that era.
The fabrics varied considerably: cotton twill, moleskin, cotton pique, corduroy, wool—each adapted to the demands of the working environment and the period.
This particular example is quite rare among French workwear. The detailing was unfamiliar to me upon first encounter.
Though cut short like a cyclist's jacket, the half-zip pullover construction is virtually unprecedented.
Moreover, this piece employs Metis—a cotton-linen fabric both scarce and highly sought after in French vintage. A remarkable find.
From the hand-feel, the cotton content appears dominant, so the characteristic fluid drape of French linen is largely absent. The touch is crisp and dry, suggesting a proportion of roughly 80% cotton to 20% linen.
Within French workwear, Metis fabric commands respect and remains difficult to locate—a genuinely rare material.
Color fading characteristic of the fabric is already evident, allowing one to fully appreciate the patina of age.
While corduroy and wool restrict seasonal wear, Metis permits year-round dressing, offering considerable versatility.
The detailing is restrained.
A gently curved collar, horizontal zippered chest pockets, side button closures at the hem—a minimal, necessary design.
The neckline features a half-zip closure.
Though the slider bears no mark, the U-shaped single-lug fastener speaks quietly of its age.
Inside, an embroidered label from Berthier—ash ground with green lettering.
Many seek pieces bearing such labels, markers of an earlier era.
The color is the characteristic ink blue of French workwear, faded through time to something closer to light blue—fresh, luminous.
Whether new to French vintage or circling back to its origins, this piece will resonate.
As a primary jacket in spring and autumn, or as an underlayer in winter—the short length serves well in layered dressing, that most rewarding of approaches.
The pleasure of short jackets lies precisely in their capacity for layering.
No size marking is visible, though it corresponds roughly to a Japanese M.
The actual measurements suggest a golden size—accommodating various builds—equally suited to a close fit or worn oversized.
There is visible wear: soiling, fading, repair marks, replaced buttons, missing buttons, minor slider damage. Yet nothing suggests compromise to integrity or wearability. The jacket remains ready for the body.
Among French fabrics, Metis remains scarce and prized.
Rare among French workwear itself, this piece merits consideration, particularly for those drawn to the uncommon.
Worthy both as a working garment and as a collecting piece.
Difficult to source. If you have been seeking such a thing, this may be the moment.
