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SKU · J01089 ·ARRIVED 2026.08.21

[~40's] French Vintage Black Moleskin Work Jacket "Adolphe Lafont"

ADOLPHE LAFONT·JACKET

[~40's] French Vintage Black Moleskin Work Jacket "Adolphe Lafont"

Name: [~40's] French Vintage Black Moleskin Work Jacket "Adolphe Lafont"
Brand: VIEUX ET NOUVEAU
SKU: J01089
Price: 118000 JPY
Availability: InStock

¥118,000

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

An ADOLPHE LAFONT black moleskin work jacket, thought to date from around the 1940s.

A special piece has come in.

A garment of eighty years ago, surviving in this condition.
And with Adolphe Lafont as its maker besides — for anyone fond of French workwear, that alone should quicken the pulse.

ADOLPHE LAFONT is among the oldest workwear manufacturers in France, founded in Lyon in 1844.

Lyon, the city of its founding, was at the time the foremost silk-weaving town in Europe.
At the foot of that glittering textile industry, the company began by making hard-wearing clothes for the people working in factories and workshops.

What made Lafont's name decisively was the "salopette" it sent out into the world at the beginning of the twentieth century.

That one-piece work garment with a bib and braces.
It covered the upper body and yet never hindered movement. With this single piece, the dress of the French worker was substantially rewritten.

From then on the farmhand, the blacksmith and the machinist alike went to work in this company's clothes.
Long before the word workwear was ever coined, Lafont was always there on the shop floors of France.

The company survives to this day and continues as a maker of work clothing.
Yet the chances of a piece carrying the air of the pre- and post-war years reaching the market like this feel fewer with every passing year.

Now, let us speak of this particular jacket.

The first thing to catch the eye is the rounded collar.

With its corners taken off to draw a soft curve, this collar is a feature common to French workwear of the older years, and an important clue when gauging a date.
The later the piece, the more the collar tends towards the straight, so this roundness alone speaks of this jacket's age.

The front takes five buttons.
Black buttons with their sheen dulled run vertically, and the placket carries only a single line of stitching — a genuinely plain treatment.

There are three pockets: one at the left breast and one at each hip.
All are patch pockets with the corners taken off on the diagonal, without ornament of any kind.

A garment made solely for work, having furnished itself with exactly the functions it needed and no more, arrives at a bearing this quiet.
This concision is, I think, the very essence of French workwear.

Open it up and there is an internal pocket on the left front.
And at that spot is stitched a small label embroidered in red thread on a black ground.

"ADOLPHE LAFONT / LYON / MARQUE DÉPOSÉE".
Translated directly: Adolphe Lafont, Lyon, registered trademark. To its right, an "AL" monogram is added in cursive in white thread.

To go to the trouble of putting an embroidered label into a work garment.
And in two colours, red and white, at that. I cannot help feeling that the company's pride of the period is concentrated in this one small piece.

The cloth is moleskin, dyed black.

Moleskin, translated directly, means the skin of a mole.
Cotton is woven densely in a satin weave and the surface raised, and from this comes that smoothness like fur, and that particular quality of drinking in the light.

Being close-set it lets no wind through, and gives little for iron filings or bits of straw to catch on.
This is precisely why the craftsmen of Europe chose this cloth, to a man.

And what deserves particular mention in this piece is the hand of it.
That supple, faintly adhesive resilience particular to moleskin of the older years.
It is a feel arrived at only by cloth washed and dried over and over across a long span of time, and it is not to be had from pieces of more recent decades.

From here onward, this cloth will go on changing.
The threads will rise from the elbows, the cuffs and around the pockets in turn, and the black will lift paler still.
That after eighty years there is room to develop yet is, I think, the formidable thing about moleskin.

The colour is a black well advanced into fading.

It is not a pure black.
A pale, ink-like mottling spreads across the whole like cloud, appearing charcoal or deep grey depending on the angle of the light.

The impression of French workwear runs strongly to ink blue, but black is scarce among it, and a colour many people are looking for.
Less overtly a work garment than blue, and yet without the tension particular to black.
This ambiguity settles astonishingly well into the way we dress today.

Thrown over denim it reads lightly; paired with black trousers the whole composes itself quietly.
Worn over nothing but a white shirt, the quality of the cloth will say everything that needs saying.

There is no size marking, but in Japanese sizing it corresponds roughly to "M".

It is a comparatively compact make, cut to the build of the French of the period.
That the hem of the front is taken slightly longer will have been a consideration to keep the back from being exposed when stooping.
Someone of slighter build wearing it close to the body will, I think, suit this piece best of all.

There is wear consistent with the cloth — burnishing at the edges, some fading — but no significant damage that would affect wearing it, so there is a great deal of life in it yet.

For a piece of the 1940s, the condition is astonishingly good.
There are no tears or major repairs, and all of the buttons are the originals.

The company continues to this day, but this round collar, this embroidered label, and the moleskin of that time are no longer being made.
Black cloth woven in the Lyon of eighty years ago can only be had in the measure that time allows.

Lafont of this period, and in black moleskin at that, has come to us only two or three times in the past.
If you have been looking for one, I hope you will take this opportunity to put your arms through it.

SIZE INFORMATION

　
MEASUREMENT

表記：　-
着丈：　前 74 cm , 後 71 cm
肩幅：　46 cm
身幅：　56.5 cm
アームホール幅：　24.5 cm
袖丈：　62.5 cm

Notation：　-
Body Length：　Front 74 cm , Back 71 cm
Shoulder Width：　46 cm
Body Width：　56.5 cm
Armhole Width：　24.5 cm
Sleeve Length：　62.5 cm

※ Measured laid flat.
※ Slight variations are to be expected.
　

FITTING MODEL

165cm / 50kg
　

SIZE GUIDE

Please refer to the following for measurement points.

JAPANESE
ENGLISH

CONDITION

USED

《生地特有のアタリ》
《褪色》

《Fades specific to the fabric》
《Fading》

OTHER DETAIL

RARITY:　3.5
TIME (Era):　〜1940'S
COUNTRY:　FRANCE
BRAND:　ADOLPHE LAFONT
CATEGORY:　JACKET
COLOR:　BLACK
SIZE FEEL:　M
SIZE:　7
MATERIAL:　
WEIGHT:　

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