Circa 1940s, a French-made grey cotton piqué hunting jacket.
The "Hunting Jacket"—a staple of French workwear.
Despite bearing the name "Hunting" in its title, this piece was in fact worn primarily by the upper classes during hunts in France from the late 19th century through the mid-20th century. It is a garment that embodies both functionality and formality.
In France of that era, hunting was far more than a means of subsistence. Among the aristocracy, landowners, and wealthy industrialists—the "privileged classes"—it was widely practised as part of social life and leisure. For this reason, the jacket was not tailored for farmers or common laborers, but rather was conceived and crafted for those of distinguished station.
Throughout France, particularly in cities such as Lyon, Limoges, and Toulouse, skilled tailors and workshops were scattered about. Many examples from the early 1900s onwards were commissioned as bespoke pieces, tailored to the individual wearer's frame and purpose. The concept of ready-made garments had not yet taken root, making factory production exceedingly rare. Many pieces bore no tag whatsoever—each one a work of artisanal craftsmanship.
The fabrics employed were diverse: heavy cotton canvas, cotton piqué, corduroy, linen, wool, and moleskin were selected to withstand the rigours of the hunt. These materials offered wind resistance, durability, and freedom of movement—practical virtues essential to forest and moorland use, yet rendered with the refined bearing befitting the wearer's station.
Among the many forms of French workwear, the hunting jacket stands apart. Its purpose and social position are unmistakable, and it remains, even today, regarded as a singular piece—one that marries utility with elegance.
This particular example employs cotton piqué, the quintessential fabric for French hunting jackets.
We have presented numerous French hunting jackets over the years, but precisely because it is a canonical piece, we permit ourselves no compromise in selection.
The reason this example was chosen from among so many:
it lies in an exceptionally rare combination—the orthodox choice of cotton piqué for the face paired with a "Salt & Pepper" lining, a pairing seldom encountered.
Salt & Pepper. A literal translation: "salt and pepper."
As the name suggests, black and white fibres woven together create subtle gradations of grey—what is known as "sesame salt" fabric. In the world of French workwear, it is recognized as a material for trousers and coats, yet we have scarcely seen a hunting jacket with this lining.
The faded grey cotton piqué of the exterior, the salt and pepper within. This material contrast between outside and inside is the defining factor that elevates this piece from "standard" to "exceptional."
First and foremost, the metal animal buttons arrayed with precision down the front placket are extraordinary. When one speaks of the hunting jacket, this button cannot be overlooked. Indeed, one might say this button is the very identity of the hunting jacket itself.
The dull lustre that aged metal acquires bears the character of an antique coin burnished by time. Against the body of faded cotton piqué, it strikes a note of austere refinement.
These buttons are employed throughout the jacket with absolute consistency—front closure, chest pocket, side pockets, and cuff—creating a unified vision. This rigorous coherence of design distinguishes the work from mass production, embodying the pride of the tailoring craft of that era.
A single small component determines the character of an entire garment. Here, one finds a perfect example of this principle.
The pocket configuration follows the orthodox arrangement that serves as the textbook for hunting jackets. At the chest, two small flapped patch pockets rest on either side.
These are dimensioned for practical access to cartridge shells and small necessities.
At the waist, two slightly larger flapped patch pockets sit on either side.
And the true hallmark of the French hunting jacket—the game pocket at the back. This large capacity pocket, opened and closed by buttons on both sides, originally served to contain the day's quarry.
The cuff is not a simple tube, but rather a button-tab design seen on older hunting jackets. This detail allows adjustment of the wrist fit, preventing the sleeve from shifting when shouldering a rifle and protecting from snags on brush—a practical refinement born of necessity and logic.
The same animal buttons appear here as well, unifying the design throughout.
The colour is a deeply faded grey, the result of decades of time. One surmises the original hue was somewhat deeper, but the years have drawn it toward a pale, desiccated tone. Around pockets and along the front placket, darker colour remains; across the shoulders and sleeves, exposure to light has advanced the fading.
This uneven gradation of fade possesses remarkable character.
This chromatic variation—which no human hand could ever recreate, born only of time—is the most fundamental beauty that vintage possesses, and the greatest allure this piece wears.
The dull silver of the metal animal buttons catches the light amid this faded grey. The contrast is undeniably compelling.
No size marking is evident, though based on proportions it appears to correspond to a Japanese M–L. By actual measurement, it aligns with what might be termed a golden size for the Japanese frame, suitable for a range of builds.
Fading, discolouration, soiling, abrasion, loose stitching, repair marks, and replacement of certain buttons are all present and visible.
To be candid, the condition cannot be described as "excellent." Yet, considering the 1940s vintage, the sheer fact that this jacket has survived more than eighty years to stand before us is remarkable.
More importantly, this very fading, this soiling, this wear—these are the wellspring of the overwhelming presence this piece commands. One need only examine the photographs to perceive this. This is a jacket for those who understand that condition is not a defect, but rather the evidence of a life authentically lived.
The orthodox surface of cotton piqué paired with the unorthodox interior of salt and pepper. The dull gleam of animal buttons meeting the faded gradient inscribed by eighty years of time.
Those who have come to know the "standard" French hunting jacket thoroughly will alone appreciate the value of this piece's position as "anomaly within the canonical."
This is a rarely seen example in our inventory. Should you be searching for such a piece, we urge you not to overlook this opportunity.
