Issued in 1942, this is a Kriegsmarine (German Navy) Drillich Herringbone Twill Linen Sailor Smock.
A special arrival. This deadstock piece notably features an unflashed condition—water has not compromised the fabric or hardware.
The Kriegsmarine, established in 1935 under the Reichswehr Reconstruction Act, was the naval arm of the German Wehrmacht, one of three branches alongside the Army and Air Force within the National Socialist German state.
Severely constrained by the Treaty of Versailles following the First World War, the German Navy covertly expanded its naval capabilities—submarines and beyond—during the rearmament period of the 1930s.
The Kriegsmarine inherited the legacy of the Imperial Navy (Kaiserliche Marine) from the First World War and the interwar Reichsmarine, operating from 1935 to 1945 throughout the Second World War.
Its organization and operations drew substantially from the Reichsmarine, participating in various military actions across the war's duration. The establishment and development of this naval force embodied German military ambition and remained deeply entangled in the geopolitical currents of its era.
Within this context, we present the Linen Sailor Smock—worn by German Navy personnel as a working garment on battleship decks.
Drillich refers to a durable work fabric widely employed throughout the German military during the Second World War. The term is a German word describing a weave pattern—specifically, herringbone twill fabric (HBT).
Initially adopted in unbleached form for work and training duties, as conflict intensified, its comfort and practicality led to its adoption as summer field wear in combat zones. This versatility suggests that across the German Army, Navy, and Air Force alike, Drillich saw broad use beyond mere workwear, particularly during the warmer months.
Originally engineered for training and work, it underwent successive refinement—adapted in color and cut to better suit field combat, evolving continuously in response to practical necessity.
The white working and training garments of the German Navy trace their lineage to the Royal Prussian Navy (1701–1867), were carried forward through the German Imperial Navy (1871–1918), and ultimately inherited by the Kriegsmarine.
Despite its sailor smock classification, the collar remains restrained and modest—a compact sailor's collar paired with a generously cut V-neck skipper opening, a square pocket positioned on the right chest alone, and side eyelets at both hems creating a keyhole effect. Naval character runs throughout its details.
The stamped markings characteristic of original German military issue remain clearly visible inside, a detail worthy of note.
The fabric employs the distinctive German military Drillich—herringbone twill woven entirely from linen, a material highly regarded in the vintage market.
Its particular hand, with a gentle fluidity that catches movement much like French linen, contributes to its appeal.
Linen of this era possesses a quality immediately apparent even to the untrained hand—it has become something modern production cannot replicate, commanding considerable respect among those who understand fabric. The textile alone represents substantial value.
Beyond its rarity, considered purely as a garment, this is an exceptionally compelling piece. We encourage you to wear it without reservation.
Marked size 3, corresponding roughly to M–L in Japanese sizing.
Based on actual measurements, it represents a golden size for Japanese proportions, accommodating a broad range of frames. Whether worn close or oversized, it carries itself with equal presence.
As deadstock, the condition is exemplary—no tears or significant damage. Storage age has left its mark in the form of some fading, though nothing compromises wear. This piece remains entirely wearable.
German military items have drawn particular attention in recent years, yet original pieces remain exceedingly scarce—the appetite far outpaces what survives. Demand consistently exceeds supply.
With a devoted following, German military pieces are coveted archive holdings that collectors seldom part with.
It serves equally well as wardrobe staple, collection piece, or design reference.
German military items remain among our rarest arrivals. If you have been searching, this opportunity warrants your attention.
