A two-tone houndstooth rayon jacket from American manufacture, estimated to be from the 1950s.
An arrival of special significance.
A rare opportunity to present an American-made rayon jacket in our shop. During a buying trip to Britain, we were drawn immediately to the classical houndstooth pattern and two-tone composition—a piece that holds particular meaning for us.
An icon of American fashion from the 1950s, commonly known as the "gabardine jacket," it stands as an essential piece within American vintage.
True to its name, the gabardine jacket is typically constructed from densely woven rayon fabric in a twill weave—what is referred to as "gabardine." This particular example, however, employs a different weave altogether.
Strictly speaking, this piece deviates from the traditional definition of a gabardine jacket, though it shares the rayon fabric foundation as its base. The distinction lies only in the weave construction.
Short length, a collar with subtle elongation, and flap pockets positioned at the mid-torso—these are the understated details that echo the gabardine jacket's design vocabulary.
As a vintage piece, what accounts for its continued appeal is its design sensibility, which translates seamlessly into contemporary dress.
The reason for our immediate attachment upon discovering it in Britain:
It lies primarily in the classical houndstooth pattern that forms its base, paired with nubuck leather used as a contrasting trim.
Despite its American origin, there exists a certain European sensibility in its presence—a quality that stirs the heart of those drawn to European vintage.
Pieces of this category tend toward solid colors or subtle kasuri patterns, so a design with such pronounced color blocking is quite rare.
The use of nubuck leather for the contrast particularly resonates.
Closure is via zipper fastening.
The zip slider employs a CONMAR manufactured zipper.
It pairs effortlessly with American-made wide-leg trousers of the same era, and proves equally compatible with European-made trousers.
As a statement piece, we suggest keeping accompanying items understated.
No size marking is visible, though it appears to correspond to approximately M to L.
Given the actual measurements, it represents a golden size suitable for Japanese proportions, accommodating a wide range of builds.
There is evidence of wear—abrasion, loose threads, visible repair traces—though no significant damage impeding wear is present. The jacket remains entirely wearable.
Pieces of this caliber arrive infrequently in our shop. Should you be searching for such a thing, this opportunity warrants consideration.
