An estimated 1980s 'Saddle Shoulder Wool Balmacaan Coat' by Burberrys.
A special arrival.
Made in England. A rare piece with "saddle shoulders, in Harris Tweed".
Burberrys is a long-established British house, founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, England, by "Thomas Burberry".
In 1879, taking a cue from the smocks that farmers wore over their clothes to keep off the dirt, he invented a new fabric of outstanding durability and water resistance, known as "Gabardine". The patent followed in 1888.
In 1912 came the patent for the "Tielocken", a coat that remains much loved today. In the First World War, which broke out in 1914, the military asked for the Tielocken to be adapted to the fighting in the trenches. Fitted with D-shaped rings as fastenings for hanging military equipment, it became the "Trench Coat", and it was worn by British officers during the war.
In 1901, the familiar 'mounted knight' emblem, the "Equestrian Knight", was born of a public competition.
The image of a knight on horseback expresses the classic character of the house and its unwavering commitment to quality. The knight's banner bears the word "Prorsum" (forwards), symbolising the brand's enterprising spirit and its drive towards innovation.
Around 1920, the 'Burberrys check' — the pattern Burberry still holds as a registered trademark today — was first used as a lining for rainwear.
From Burberrys, with a history of nearly 170 years, we present a Balmacaan coat that pairs a classic design with the rare "saddle shoulder".
Burberrys coats generally come with either set-in sleeves or raglan sleeves (two-piece sleeves), but unless they are worn at exactly the right size, the shoulders tend to rise unnaturally, giving a silhouette that looks almost as if shoulder pads had been fitted.
This piece, however, has "Saddle Shoulder" sleeves, which achieve a clean silhouette "on a par with a one-piece sleeve".
A saddle shoulder is a type of raglan sleeve: a one-piece sleeve in which the shoulder runs level, giving a slightly squared shape. Because the cloth of the sleeve falls straight down with gravity, the shoulder drops further, giving a beautiful silhouette.
The one-piece sleeve may be the detail that defines vintage Burberrys, but in rarity and in the beauty of its silhouette, the saddle shoulder is in no way inferior.
It can also be worn oversized for a relaxed, contemporary look, which is perhaps why so many people are looking for one.
On this piece, the length has been shortened by a previous owner — it is what is known as a "modified" piece. It is shorter than standard, so it can be worn with the feel of a half coat.
The front closes with a concealed button fly. The fly front gives a very refined look, but it has practical merits too: the double layer of cloth keeps out the wind and protects the buttons from the elements.
The collar has a button and buttonhole intended for wearing it turned up, so you can do so whenever the mood takes you.With the collar turned up, the sense of occasion and the presence it gives are in a class of their own.
Inside the neck is a brand label reading "MADE IN ENGLAND", confirming that it was made in its home country.
This piece is generously made from "HARRIS TWEED".Even among wool pieces, most use pure wool or alpaca; ones in tweed are seldom seen.
Tweed is a type of woollen cloth, a speciality of Scotland. Woollen spinning is a method in which the shorn fleece is spun as it is, without first being aligned or drawn out.
Tweeds, Harris Tweed included, are warm and protective against the cold, highly durable, and soften and mould to the wearer the more they are worn.
The colour is grey, much sought after. A classic colour that works for both casual and formal dress — it hardly needs saying that this is a versatile piece.
Its refined British silhouette, which never feels dated, is surely one of the reasons for its popularity. The pronounced A-line that flares towards the hem makes for a silhouette that is remarkably clean and graceful when worn.
Size label: "50 RL"Roughly equivalent to a Japanese "M ~ L".
Judging by the measurements as well, it is a well-balanced 'golden' size for a Japanese build, and should suit a wide range of body types. As mentioned above, it has "saddle shoulders", so it should keep a clean silhouette even if the fit is a little generous.
There are signs of use such as marks, scuffs, small holes, tears, replaced buttons and a shortened length, but no significant damage that would affect wear, so it has plenty of life left in it.
The first name likely to come to mind for a vintage coat: "Burberrys" The outerwear of vintage Burberrys transcends the decades; it can fairly be called a timeless wardrobe, untouched by the coming and going of fashion.
When coat season arrives, many people search for Burberrys every year, and they are expected to become scarce.
Highly recommended for anyone looking for a classic coat that could become a lifelong companion — please do not miss this opportunity.
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