Circa 1980s, Burberrys 'Saddle Shoulder Wool Balmacaan Coat'.
A special acquisition.
Made in England.
A rare example featuring "Saddle Shoulder Harris Tweed" fabric.
Burberrys is a storied British house founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, England by Thomas Burberry.
In 1879, inspired by the protective garments worn by farmworkers, he invented "Gabardine", a fabric of exceptional durability and water resistance.
A patent was secured in 1888, and manufacturing rights remained exclusive until 1917.
In 1912, the patent for the "Tielocken", now a celebrated coat silhouette, was acquired.
With the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, the military commissioned an adaptation of the Tielocken—adding D-rings to accommodate grenades, swords and canteens—creating the "Trench Coat" which was subsequently adopted as official issue by the British Army and Navy.
In 1901, the first logo mark, the "Equestrian Knight", was introduced through public competition, featuring a mounted knight as the emblem.
The image of the knight on horseback embodies the brand's classical bearing and unwavering commitment to quality.
The banner held by the knight bears the inscription "Prorsum"—meaning forward—symbolising the brand's progressive spirit and dedication to innovation.
In 1924, the "Burberry Check", now a registered trademark, first appeared as the lining of rainwear.
From this heritage spanning more than 150 years, we present a Balmacaan Coat distinguished by its fundamental and elusive Saddle Shoulder construction.
Most Burberrys coats employ either a set-in or raglan sleeve, yet when worn unless precisely fitted, the shoulder structure can appear unnaturally pronounced, creating a silhouette that suggests internal padding.
This example, however, features a "Saddle Shoulder" configuration—akin to a single-piece sleeve—achieving an effortlessly refined line.
The Saddle Shoulder is a variant of the raglan, defined by its straight, slightly angular shoulder line and single-piece sleeve construction.
As the fabric falls vertically to gravity, the result is a deeper drop through the shoulder and a more graceful silhouette.
Whilst single-sleeve vintage Burberrys remains iconic, the Saddle Shoulder variant yields little in terms of rarity or purity of line.
When worn in an oversized manner, it accommodates contemporary proportions with ease—a quality many collectors seek.
This particular example has been modified by its former owner, with the hem shortened considerably.
The reduced length creates a half-coat sensibility, altering the proportion entirely.
The front closure employs a hidden button configuration, or "fly front" as it is known.
Beyond its refined visual effect, the double-layered construction provides practical benefits: wind resistance and protection of the buttons from external wear.
The collar is fitted with buttons and buttonholes for an upright stance, inviting flexibility in how one wears the coat according to mood.
The presence and atmosphere afforded by a raised collar is altogether distinct.
Interior to the neckline sits a "MADE IN ENGLAND" label attesting to its English manufacture.
This example is crafted from Harris Tweed fabric—a material of considered choice.
Whilst many wool Balmacaans employ pure wool or alpaca blends, tweed examples remain uncommon.
Tweed is a spun-weave textile, a regional specialty of the Scottish Highlands.
The distinction lies in its method: rather than carding wool into uniform strands before spinning, the fibres are spun in their natural, unaligned state.
Tweeds, particularly Harris Tweed, possess superior insulation and durability, and soften with wear, improving with age.
The colour is grey—a shade many seek.
Its neutrality makes it serviceable across both formal and casual occasions, a versatility few garments offer.
The coat's timeless silhouette speaks to British tailoring at its most assured.
The pronounced A-line, spreading toward the hem, creates an impression both dignified and elegant when worn.
Size is marked "50 RL"
This translates to approximately M to L in Japanese sizing.
The measurements align well with typical Japanese proportions, accommodating a range of builds.
Given the Saddle Shoulder construction noted above, the coat yields graceful proportions even when selected in a larger size.
Evidence of wear is present—soiling, creasing, minor holes, repairs, reattached buttons, and hemming—yet no substantial damage impairs wearing. The coat remains serviceable.
When discussing vintage coats, Burberrys inevitably rises foremost to mind.
The overcoats that emerge from the vintage Burberrys archive transcend their era, belonging to that category of dress that neither ages nor falls from relevance.
As the seasons turn toward cooler months, the search for vintage Burberrys intensifies, and supply diminishes accordingly.
For those seeking an enduring companion—a coat neither bound to fashion nor to time—this example merits consideration. The opportunity is not one to overlook.
