A 1981 Burberrys single raglan Balmacaan coat.
A special acquisition.
Made in England.
A rare example: single-piece sleeve construction, 100% cotton, in the coveted tamamushi green.
Burberrys was founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, England, by Thomas Burberry, establishing itself as a cornerstone of British heritage.
In 1879, inspired by the weatherproof garments worn by farmers, Burberry invented Gabardine—a fabric of exceptional durability and water resistance.
The patent, secured in 1888, remained exclusively theirs until 1917.
By 1912, the brand had patented the Tielocken, a silhouette that remains celebrated today.
When the First World War erupted in 1914, Burberry was called upon by the military to adapt the Tielocken for trench warfare. The resulting Trench Coat—fitted with D-ring fastenings for grenades, swords, and water bottles—became the official coat of the British Army and Navy, a legacy that endures.
In 1901, the Equestrian Knight—the brand's first logo, featuring a mounted horseman—emerged from a public competition, drawing inspiration from medieval heraldry.
The figure of the knight on horseback embodies Burberry's classical character and unwavering commitment to excellence.
The flag held by the knight bears the inscription "Prorsum"—forward—symbolising the brand's progressive spirit and embrace of innovation.
In 1924, what would become the Burberry Check—now a registered trademark—made its debut as lining for rainwear.
From a house with more than 150 years of history, we present a Balmacaan coat distinguished by its refined restraint and the exceptional rarity of its single-sleeve construction.
A coat at once classical and effortlessly contemporary—sophisticated in design, elegant in function.
The defining characteristic of this piece lies in its shoulder geometry: the single-piece sleeve construction creates a silhouette of remarkable grace.
Conventional raglan sleeves feature two seams—one at the shoulder, one at the underarm, resulting in what is known as a two-piece sleeve. The single-sleeve alternative wraps the arm in one continuous piece of fabric, with a seam only at the underarm.
This construction allows the fabric to descend smoothly from the shoulder, falling naturally with gravity to form an exceptionally clean drop-shoulder line.
Whether worn at true size or oversized, the single sleeve resists ungainly billowing—a characteristic that flatters all proportions.
Vintage Burberrys pieces with single-sleeve construction represent perhaps 1% of the available market, making them sought after by those who understand their significance.
The front closure employs a fly-front button configuration.
By concealing the buttons, this construction refines the overall silhouette while simultaneously providing practical protection against wind and external wear.
The collar features button and buttonhole positioning that permits a stand-collar configuration, allowing the wearer to alter the aesthetic at will.
The distinctive allure of a raised collar—the character it confers—exists nowhere else in the coat world.
A branded label within the collar interior reads "MADE IN ENGLAND," attesting to its provenance.
The fabric is Gabardine in 100% cotton—a material Burberry has long championed.
The finely woven structure characteristic of gabardine and its subtle lustre reveal quality immediately upon handling.
Most vintage Burberrys coats in circulation today employ a cotton-polyester blend. By contrast, examples in pure cotton remain scarce and are becoming increasingly difficult to procure.
Compared to blended fabrics, 100% cotton possesses a decisive weight and crispness, projecting a refined, substantial presence.
The natural matte surface of cotton conveys quiet dignity and depth.
The unique patina and puckering that emerge through wearing and laundering constitute a singular appeal of cotton—a characteristic polyester cannot match.
The gradual transformation of the fabric as it conforms to one's body, developing its own character through use, represents the very essence of vintage ownership.
Unlike the slickness and sheen of polyester blends, 100% cotton retains a softness with substance—an inherent classicism that time only deepens.
Its restrained appearance accommodates every register of dress, from casual to formal. It is, truly, an essential textile.
For those who value material integrity and embrace the evolution of patina, this fabric merits earnest consideration.
The colour is the tamamushi green—a shade prized by collectors.
Depending on the fall of light, the tone shifts subtly, revealing depths of green that shimmer with an iridescence reminiscent of the jewel beetle.
This colouration possesses a dimensionality absent from contemporary offerings—a hallmark of vintage Burberrys's quiet richness.
The interior lining features the classic Burberry Check.
As the identifying symbol of British luxury, the check reinforces the sense of quality from within.
The overall impression is of a pronounced A-line that flows toward the hem—an elegant, gently swaying silhouette that embodies what might be called the refined deportment of British tradition.
Its versatility across daily wear and formal occasions is matched by a presence distinctly its own.
Size marking reads "50 RL"
Equivalent to approximately L to XL in Japanese sizing.
The actual measurements indicate a generous fit, accommodating larger frames without constraint.
Given the single-sleeve construction mentioned previously, even an oversized silhouette will maintain visual clarity and proportion.
While evidence of wear is present, no substantial damage impairs functionality. The coat remains entirely wearable.
Any serious discussion of vintage coats must acknowledge Burberrys.
The authoritative grace of British tradition and functional elegance that animate this house renders each piece a statement of essential style—a coat that defines rather than follows.
Untouched by passing fashion, diminished by neither time nor circumstance, its appeal remains timeless.
For those seeking a genuine coat—one to inhabit for decades—this warrants close attention.
Given its singularity and scarcity, the opportunity merits consideration.
