A INVERTERE herringbone twill wool duffle coat, estimated from the 1990s.
A special arrival.
INVERTERE is a heritage outerwear brand founded in 1904 in England by Harold Perkin and his two brothers.
The brand holds the distinction of developing the world's first reversible coat, which was revolutionary technology for its time.
The name INVERTERE derives from the Latin meaning 'to turn around,' chosen to embody the innovative reversible coat they developed for affluent automobile owners.
In 1948, the company was sold to Walter Sorter from Yorkshire, leading to expanded production and the beginning of North American exports from new facilities.
Though the INVERTERE factory closed in 1986, Westcountry Clothing Limited was established under a contract with DAKS-Simpson by former technical director Harold Shaw, continuing to manufacture INVERTERE coats.
The company was subsequently sold to Moorbrook Textiles in 1995, after which Moorbrook acquired the INVERTERE brand from DAKS-Simpson.
INVERTERE built an international reputation for uncompromising quality and classic styling, with its timeless British aesthetic earning admiration from discerning customers worldwide.
While the duffle coat is what most associate with INVERTERE, the brand is equally renowned for exceptionally refined designs across its broader range.
Though INVERTERE has been revived and enjoys considerable contemporary popularity, the brand once ceased production and vanished from the market entirely.
For those who value authenticity and uncompromising craftsmanship, we encourage you to experience an original INVERTERE from that storied era.
The piece presented here is a quintessential INVERTERE duffle coat, crafted from 100 percent wool by Moorbrook, a hallmark example of the brand.
The fabric produced from their looms demanded inefficient production methods, yet achieved a rare combination of qualities: substantial weight, luxurious texture, softness, warmth, and surprising lightness—all realized in a deeply textured herringbone weave.
Duffle coats crafted from Moorbrook fabric by INVERTERE have earned the distinction of being called 'the finest duffle coat in the world,' a reputation earned through unrelenting market recognition.
Even HERMES PARIS, a house renowned for its obsessive attention to quality, was so captivated by Moorbrook fabric that their duffle coats from this era utilized Moorbrook cloth.
Current INVERTERE duffle coats are produced with fabric from Joshua Ellis, rather than Moorbrook.
While the herringbone weave remains consistent, Moorbrook fabric is reputed to be lighter and possess a distinctly fluffier hand than Joshua Ellis.
The silhouette itself differs subtly between vintage and current production.
Modern iterations favor a slimmer, more tailored cut that projects formality, whereas vintage examples are characteristically relaxed and generous, conveying understated ease.
For those who prefer vintage authenticity or wish to wear their coat with casual, unforced ease, a vintage INVERTERE duffle represents the genuine article.
This particular piece carries the additional distinction of bearing a double label in collaboration with DAVIDE CENCI.
DAVIDE CENCI is a venerable Italian menswear retailer founded in Rome in 1921 by Davide Cenci himself.
Details follow the conventional duffle coat formula.
The top button fastens with a button; the remainder use toggle closures. Large, generously proportioned flap patch pockets anchor the hem.
This example bears a vintage label distinctive to INVERTERE pieces from the 1990s—a rarity absent from current production.
The tag's color palette of green, yellow, and red is characteristically INVERTERE: playful without being casual, a detail that elevates the piece for those attuned to vintage identity.
The color is dark green—uncommon in duffle coat production.
While classic tones have their place, this sophisticated, muted palette offers an entirely distinct aesthetic dimension to your wardrobe.
Many assume duffle coats are necessarily heavy and cumbersome, yet those constructed from Moorbrook wool defy this expectation.
Light in weight, generous in warmth, and soft against the skin, it promises an entirely effortless wearing experience.
Size markings are not present; the piece corresponds roughly to a Japanese L to XL.
Given its generous dimensions, those of larger frame will find it entirely accommodating.
The coat presents in excellent condition, with minimal soiling or visible wear.
There are no substantial defects that would compromise its wearing quality; it remains entirely serviceable.
A duffle coat worthy of the term 'lifetime piece'—a world-class garment in every respect.
INVERTERE is fundamental to any serious discussion of the duffle coat itself.
Vintage INVERTERE duffle coats arrive infrequently at our shop.
If you have been seeking one, we encourage you not to overlook this opportunity.