A INVERTERE herringbone twill wool duffle coat, estimated from the 1990s.
A special acquisition.
INVERTEREis an established British outerwear house, founded in 1904 by Harold Perkin and his two brothers.
The brand holds the distinction of having developed the world's first reversible coat—a revolutionary technique at the time.
INVERTERE, derived from the Latin meaning 'to turn around,' was adopted as the name to express the innovative reversible coat designed for affluent motorcar owners.
In 1948, the company was sold to Walter Sorter, a Yorkshire manufacturer, who expanded the product range and initiated North American exports from new facilities.
Though the INVERTERE factory closed in 1986, the former technical director Harold Shaw established Westcountry Clothing Limited under a DAKS-Simpson contract, continuing to produce INVERTERE coats.
Subsequently, in 1995, the company was sold to Moorbrook Textiles, which shortly thereafter acquired the INVERTERE brand from DAKS-Simpson.
INVERTERE built an international reputation for its exceptional quality and timeless styling. The brand's quintessentially British, season-transcending aesthetic earned recognition among discerning customers worldwide.
While INVERTERE is perhaps most synonymous with the duffle coat, the house was equally renowned for items of exceptional design across its range.
Though INVERTERE has since been revived and enjoys considerable popularity today, the house has a complex history—including a period when the brand disappeared from the market entirely. For those committed to authenticity, we would urge consideration of these older examples, crafted in an era of rigorous quality control and dedication to craft.
The present piece is a representative duffle coat, tailored from 100% wool fabric by Moorbrook.
The fabric produced by their looms was inherently inefficient in production, yet capable of yielding a cloth of remarkable substance—dense, plush, soft, warm, and remarkably light. The resulting herringbone twill possessed considerable texture and depth.
INVERTERE duffles constructed with Moorbrook fabric have been regarded as among the finest duffle coats ever made, a reputation that stands uncontested in the market.
Even HERMES PARIS, a house known for uncompromising quality standards, held Moorbrook's cloth in such regard that duffle coats from this era were specified with Moorbrook fabric.
While INVERTERE continues to produce duffles today, they now employ Joshua Ellis cloth rather than Moorbrook.
Though both feature herringbone twill construction, Moorbrook cloth is reputed to possess a slightly lighter hand and greater loft than that of Joshua Ellis.
The silhouette, too, differs meaningfully between past and present.
Modern INVERTERE duffles tend toward a slimmer, more tailored cut with a formal sensibility, whereas vintage examples embrace a more generous, relaxed proportion with distinctly casual bearing.
For those who value vintage garments or prefer a more spacious, informal fit, a vintage INVERTERE duffle is the clear choice.
Details follow the conventional duffle archetype.
The top button is button-fastened; the remainder are toggled. Large flap patch pockets sit at the hem.
This example is rare among INVERTERE pieces, bearing the older tag style specific to 1990s production—distinct from current labeling.
The tag's palette of green, yellow, and red, so characteristic of INVERTERE, is a detail that vintage enthusiasts rightly regard as a point of genuine satisfaction.
The colorway—mustard—represents a rare shade even among vintage INVERTERE duffles.
Beyond the rarity itself, the coat possesses a luminous, commanding presence that will lend warmth and vitality to winter's typically muted palette.
Many assume duffle coats to be cumbersome and difficult to wear. Those constructed from Moorbrook cloth, however, stand apart entirely.
Light, warm, and possessing a supple hand, such a coat promises effortless wear.
Size marked "38 R"
Corresponds approximately to Japanese size M.
By the measurements alone, this represents a golden proportion for the Japanese physique, accommodating a broad range of frames.
Larger sizes predominate in vintage examples, rendering this size genuinely uncommon.
Evidence of wear—surface soiling, a button missing—is visible, though no damage compromises utility or appearance. The coat remains fully wearable.
A true "lifetime garment"—and among the finest duffle coats ever realized.
One cannot speak meaningfully of duffle coats without invoking INVERTERE. Such is this coat.
Vintage INVERTERE duffles arrive infrequently in our shop.
Should you be seeking such a piece, we would encourage you not to delay.
