An {{INVERTERE}} Raglan Sleeve Balmacaan Coat, estimated from the 1990s.
{{INVERTERE}} is a venerable British outerwear brand founded in 1904 by Harold Perkin and his two brothers.
The house holds the distinction of having developed the world's first reversible coat—a revolutionary innovation for its time.
The name {{INVERTERE}}, derived from Latin meaning 'to turn around,' was adopted to characterize their groundbreaking reversible coats, originally conceived for the affluent motorist.
In 1948, the company was acquired by Walter Sothel of Yorkshire, leading to expanded production capacity and exports to North America.
Though the {{INVERTERE}} factory closed in 1986, Harold Shaw, the former technical director, established {{Westcountry Clothing Limited}} under a {{DAKS-Simpson}} agreement, continuing the manufacture of {{INVERTERE}} coats.
The company was subsequently sold in 1995 to {{Moorbrook Textiles}}, which shortly after acquired the {{INVERTERE}} brand from {{DAKS-Simpson}}.
{{INVERTERE}} built an international reputation through its uncompromising quality and classically restrained aesthetic. The brand's timeless, distinctly British design continues to command respect among discerning customers worldwide.
While {{INVERTERE}} is perhaps best known for its duffle coats, the archive reveals a breadth of pieces distinguished by their refined design sensibility. The brand has experienced a recent revival, though it endured a period of decline and near-obscurity in the market. Those serious about vintage garments are encouraged to seek out examples from this earlier era—pieces that embody an uncompromising commitment to craft.
This offering is a straightforward balmacaan in the raglan construction—a silhouette reminiscent of {{Burberry}}'s own storied heritage in British outerwear.
Notably, this piece carries a double label with {{DE PAZ}}, indicating a special commission.
Details of the commissioning retailer remain unknown, though it was likely a notable department store of the period.
As mentioned, the sleeves are cut in the raglan configuration.
The diagonal seam affords greater freedom of movement and expanded range of motion at the shoulder and arm. Beyond this functional advantage, the cut naturally accommodates a variety of frames—a welcome feature in any garment.
The palette and construction remain decidedly elementary—a coat that transcends occasion. From casual wear through formal dress, it functions as a true universal.
The front closure employs a concealed button placket—a detail that confers both visual refinement and practical benefit. The double layer of fabric provides wind resistance while protecting the buttons from the elements.
Buttons and buttonholes are positioned on the collar to permit a standing collar wear should the wearer desire. The effect when worn buttoned at the neck carries its own particular character.
Both shell and lining are constructed entirely of cotton—a detail that will appeal to those who value vintage authenticity.
The high-density cotton gabardine employed here is the same cloth favored by {{Burberry}} itself, and it rewards repeated examination.
With a composition of 100% cotton, the garment will display the subtle wear patterns inherent to the fiber as it ages in use.
The silhouette carries no sense of obsolescence, remaining instead the embodiment of British elegance.
The pronounced A-line that expands toward the hem creates a line that is both graceful and thoroughly refined when worn.
Labeled size 42 R.
This corresponds to approximately a European L to XL.
Given the measured dimensions, this piece will accommodate larger frames without constraint.
Signs of wear are present—surface soiling and a missing button among them—though no damage impairs the garment's wearability. It remains serviceable and ready for years to come.
Vintage {{INVERTERE}} pieces enter the market infrequently. This is a notably fine example.
It represents an iteration wholly unavailable in the current {{INVERTERE}} production—a perspective unique to the archive itself.
Acquisitions of this caliber are rare. Should such a piece interest you, this opportunity warrants serious consideration.
